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Friendship and Barcelona Part 1.

The Best Thing I Ate Today in Umbria Day 10 (Our last day!)

Before I get down to the business of reporting on Day 10 I am excited to share with you the debut post of a brand new young food blogger. (O.K, full disclosure here, it’s my daughter, and I couldn’t be prouder). Check out her first post at http://bostonbakesforbreastcancer.org/tales-of-a-chocoholic/

O.K. back to Day 10 in Umbria.

My original plan, when I embarked on my trip to Umbria, was to blog at the end of each day, about the single best thing I had eaten. Boy was that a naive plan! First of all, trying to narrow down the best thing you ate all day, while travelling through Italy, is no easy task. Almost every morsel I put in my mouth had me declaring, “Could be the best thing I”ve eaten today!” Secondly, after attempting to blog on my first night, full with both food and wine and exhausted from touring all day, I quickly realized I would not be able to write a very coherent post. So I decided to take lots of photos and notes and do it all when I got home. I arrived home on Sept 25! It has taken me over 7 weeks to post about all 10 days, but here we are, finally at the end.

We decided to just hang out at our incredible villa for our last day before the magic was over, and we all turned back into pumpkins to return to our real lives. Although, the body shapes of some of us was beginning to resemble pumpkins, after 10 days of eating our way through the Umbrian countryside. Over breakfast we just feasted our eyes on the incredible views from our terrace.

Liria, our wonderful host, volunteered to give us a cooking class this morning. She offered to teach us whatever we wanted to learn. Without even hesitating, I told Liria I needed to know how to make pappa al pomodoro, the Tuscan tomato bread soup I’d eaten at Cibreo in Florence. Without a doubt, this was the best thing I ate on our trip. I was smitten with this soup.

We gathered in the kitchen and Liria outfitted us with out aprons, chef”s hats and gloves. Gloves??? Wow, I was impressed. When I remarked to Liria how blown away I was with her attention to hygiene, she laughed and said, that she only wears the gloves to protect her manicure and figured that we were like-minded women. Boy, had she pegged us right!

The kitchen here at the villa is a sight to behold. I coveted it all, but most especially, the induction cooktop. I had always thought that a gas cooktop was the best, but the temperature control you get with this cooktop is incredible. The marble back splash was nothing to sneeze at either!

We began with fresh plum tomatoes, basil, spring onions and salt. They were simmered for about 15 minutes and then transferred to a food mill for processing. The food mill is an extremely handy kitchen tool. The skins and seeds of the tomato are separated from the flesh and no peeling is required on your part! It also makes incredible applesauce (no peeling required) and wonderful, fluffy mashed potatoes. We all got a chance to have a spin.

While the tomatoes were being milled, Liria gently simmered some garlic, basil and, her secret ingredient, whole cloves, in a generous glug of olive oil. I was shocked that she used cloves. They are one of the few spices I can not stomach the aroma of. I find them extremely cloying and leave them out of every recipe that calls for them. Liria said that she only uses 4 of them for a huge pot of soup and you can’t really taste them. They just add a background note that enhances all the flavours. She stressed that low heat is key at this stage, as you do not want to brown the garlic, as it would become bitter. After a 10 minute low simmer, the tomato puree is added and that cooks for an additional 10 minutes.

The final addition is breadcrumbs to thicken the soup.

After an additional 10 minutes of simmering, the soup is ladled into bowls and finished off with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and some fresh julienned basil.

Click here to get the recipe for Papa al Pomodoro.

After lunch we had a chance to tour the gardens and see all the fresh produce that grows here at Casali di Monticchio. Grapes, eggplant, olives and figs are just a few of the things we observed, in addition to chickens in a coop for farm fresh scrambled eggs every morning.

For our farewell aperitivo, Liria pulled out all the stops and fed us a feast. Even the villa dog, Parcetta, perked up when the prosciutto came out!

I feel so grateful to have such wonderful and loving friends to have shared this incredible journey with. What a ride it’s been! Thanks to all who have followed along to read about our adventure.

The Best Thing I Ate Today In Umbria Day 9

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Just realized I completely forgot to tell you all about the best thing I ate each and every morning for breakfast at our villa, Casali di Monticchio. Each morning Liria and her daughter Johanna, set out a buffet for us. Before we arrived, an e-mail went out to all the guests asking us about our food preferences. Apparently 12 out of 18 of us requested non-fat greek yogurt and berries with granola for breakfast. I know… we are such an exciting bunch! I will not divulge what the other 6 asked for.

Each morning, I started my day with had a bowl of yogurt with fresh berries, sometimes ripe peaches and bananas and always a small handful of this incredible granola sprinkled on top. It was sweet, but not too sweet, had lots of nuts and seeds and some coconut and just a few dried fruits. But the best part was that this granola had huge clumps. Everyone always eats the big clumps of the granola first and leaves the little crumbs in the box for the end. This granola had very few little crumbs and lots of huge clumps which maximized the yummy crunch factor! I needed to get Liria’s secret granola recipe. When I finally remembered to ask her this morning, she went into the kitchen and came out, sheepishly holding a huge bag of Kellogg’s fruit and nut granola. I have been searching for it ever since I came home but can’t find it. I think it is something developed for the European market. It will haunt me for a very long time.

Fortified by this excellent breakfast, about 8 of us headed off on the mini-bus, with Claudio, our ever-faithful driver, to the outlet malls. When we were first planning the trip, my travel agent, Linda, looked over the itinerary and noticed that we had not scheduled any official shopping time. WHAT?? How could I have forgotten to do that? When I asked her what she would recommend, she quickly responded that we must visit the outlet malls, situated just outside of Florence. When some people hear the words, “outlet mall”, the adrenaline starts pumping through their veins and their pulse starts to race just a bit faster. I’m just not one of those people. Don’t get me wrong, I get just as giddy as the next Canadian woman when I come within a 1 mile radius of a Target store, but outlet shopping always ends up disappointing me.

The clothes are usually just heaped on shelves and racks and I find that so aesthetically unappealing. I just don’t have the vision or the patience to sort through it all. The changing rooms are usually scuzzy and they have a limit on the number of items you can take in. Sometimes the change rooms do not even have mirrors and you have to come out to look in the mirror in a general changing area. I hate that! And finally, most of the stuff in outlet stores is the kind of stuff you would have felt quite “fashion forward” in last year but left you asking, this year, “What was I thinking?”

After I explained this all to Linda, she started to laugh at me. She explained that Italian outlet Malls are nothing like North American ones. They are very high-end and while the items may be last season, most of the designs are so classic, they will become wardrobe staples for a very long time. My girlfriend Marla is an excellent shopper. She has incredible patience and stamina, both of which you need in abundance to shop sales and outlet malls. She has a knack of combing through the sales racks and finding that one gem. That one flexible classic piece that can be dressed up to go black tie or can be worn with jeans to go for coffee. I love to shop with her, follow her into the change room and try on all her rejects. All the glory and none of the hard work. Luckily, she would be joining us on the outlet shopping trip in Italy.

The build-up to our shopping day was kind of intense. We decided to visit “The Mall” (it’s actually called that!) and “Space”. The Mall is a beautiful high-end outdoor outlet shopping centre located in the town of Leccio, about a 30 minute drive from Florence. Shops at The Mall included a veritable who’s who of big name designers. Alexander McQueen, Armani, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Dior, Fendi, Gucci, Hogan, Loro Piana, Marni, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney, Tod’s , Valentino, YSL, Zegna. “Space” is the Prada Outlet store. There was quite a discussion about which to visit first, “The Mall” or “Space.” We had heard that there were huge lineups at Space and they only let 100 people in at a time. In developing our strategy, we consulted Liria, the owner of our villa. She advised us to visit The Mall first and then Space. She said that lineups on a weekday in September would not be an issue.

When our bus pulled up at The Mall, Marla had her shopping strategy well mapped out and made a beeline to the Marni store. We all followed her like baby chicks after their mother hen! The mall was everything Linda had promised. The grounds were beautifully manicured, the stores well-lit and appointed and all the wares were beautifully displayed. You would never guess you were in an outlet mall. The staff all spoke English, and were very helpful. No attitude at all. The changing rooms were large and well-lit with mirrors. Best of all, there was no limit on the number of items you could take in at once. We were very successful at The Mall, and most of us found at least one or two treasures. My brother-in-law, (first photo in this post) was happy to be our bag mule as long as we fed and watered him.

I was so busy trying on clothes and attempting to keep up with Marla’s speedy pace, that I only managed to take a few photos. Most of these are from The Mall’s own website.

After The Mall, it was off to Space, the Prada Outlet. Located in an industrial area, just outside the town of Montevarchi, there were no identifying signs to let you know you had arrived. I guess Prada does not want to advertise that they have an outlet store. Try as they may to hide this outlet store, Claudio, our trusty driver, managed to ferret it out!

There was no line-up at all when we arrived, so we sailed right in. When you first enter the store, a very handsome Prada model hands you a ticket with a number on it. This is your PIN number for the day. You are not allowed to take items you wish to purchase from one department to another. Once you try the item on and decide you want to purchase it, you hand the items over to a sales associate and they set it aside with your PIN number. When you are all done shopping, you proceed to the checkout and all your items magically appear. Luckily, you are still able to change your mind at the cash and they don’t even get snarky about it!

Prada knows a thing or two about merchandising. Upon entering, straight ahead, front and center, is the shoe department. Like moths to a flame we were drawn right in! Purses, accessories and collection pieces are on the right hand side of the store and skin care, sunglasses and sportswear flank the left side of the store. Menswear, as usual, is buried at the back. I’m always surprised that men don’t have a complex about this.

Although this was an outlet store, the displays were quite beautiful and there was a large selection of items and sizes. I managed to find a beautiful black cashmere sweater for 70% off and a cute little evening bag to bring home to my daughter, as a consolation prize for daring to go to the Holy Grail (Prada Outlet) without her! Prices were really good. One friend bought two purses, one for herself and one for her sister. (Lucky sister!) My sister-in-law got some gorgeous shoes that we all coveted. All in all, a successful trip!

Stay tuned for Day 10 (our last day before going home – sob!) when we get a cooking lesson from Liria, in her fabulous kitchen!

The Best Thing I Ate Today in Umbria Day 8

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This morning, after breakfast, we headed out in the mini-bus and were dropped off about an hour’s hike away from the town of Pitigliano. This little hillside town, south of Florence, on the Tuscan border, has a fascinating Jewish history. Our guide for the day was a young woman named Elisabetta. She grew up in Pitigliano as a history and archaeology scholar. She also runs the local library in Pitigliano. As we hiked into town, she gave us a brief history of Pitigliano.

Jews began settling in Pitigliano in the 15^th Century. The Jewish population continued to grow as more Jews were forced out of Rome because of Pope Paul IV’s segregation policies, requiring Jews to live in ghettos. Pitigliano was an attractive place to settle for many Jews because it was not part of the papal state and was an independent province, ruled at the time by the Orsini family. The Orsini’s social policy was quite laissez-faire and the Jews were permitted to live a freer lifestyle. A synagogue was built in 1598, followed by the construction of a school. Jews were permitted to set up their own businesses as carpenters, tailors, weavers, shoemakers and moneylenders. The city soon became known as La Piccola Gerusalemme or “Little Jerusalem.”

Over the next several hundred years, depending on who was in power, the fortunes of the Jews of Pitigliano either waxed or waned. However, despite restrictions during various periods, the Jewish community continued to grow and prosper. In the mid 1800’s the Jewish population of Pitigliano reached almost 400 people, which represented over 10% of the total population.

After the unification of Italy in 1861, the Jewish population of Pitigliano began to decline. Many Jews moved to larger cities nearby for economic reasons. By 1931, there were only 70 Jews left living there. Anti-Semitism was rampant by 1936 and then in 1938 racial laws were instituted. During the Holocaust, the brave Christian people of Pitigliano risked their lives to hide and save Jews that were escaping from the Nazi terror. They hid them on farms in the valleys and in caves up in the hills.

After the war, only 30 Jews returned to Pitigliano. The synagogue had been damaged during the war. Today despite the fact that there are only 3 Jews left in Pitigliano, the Jewish cultural heritage has been preserved. The synagogue was rebuilt in 1995. One of those Jews is Elena Servi. She is president of Associazione La Piccola Gerusalemme (The Association of Little Jerusalem), an organization made up of both Catholics and Jews. Elena and her nephew have made it their life’s mission to tell the story of the history of Pitigliano so that future generations can learn from it.

It is a beautiful story of cultural and religious co-existence, tolerance, compassion, respect, friendship and affection between Christians and Jews. The association has raised funds to restore and preserve all the Jewish monuments in the town, including the Synagogue, the “Forno di Asimo” (the Kosher oven) and the Jewish Cemetery. The citizens of this town honour the memory of the Jewish citizens that once thrived in this place. They feel strongly that it is important to remember and preserve the history and maintain these sites so that it will never be forgotten. It is a very moving tribute.

A beautiful web site, devoted to Pitigliano has been created by one very special man. Click HERE to check it out!

We went to see the Kosher oven where matzoh for Passover was baked so many years ago.

We had the privilege of meeting Signora Servi and she spoke to us about her experiences during the Holocaust. She and several members of her family left the town in November 1943 and were hidden away by farmers and peasants, outside of town, moving from one small farm to another, until June 1944. The last 3 months of hiding were spent in a cave under the protection and support of a local Christian farmer.

After meeting with Elena, Elisabetta took us over to an old wine cellar (Cantina Sociale) where we were served an incredible lunch.

Platters of food kept arriving at the table. Of course the requisite Pecorino cheese made an appearance. We had a 2-month old one which tasted very fresh and nutty and a 1-year-old one which was drier and had some straw undertones. Then they brought Stracchino, a mild soft white cow’s milk cheese to the table with 3 sauces (cactus, acacia honey and pear and pepper) to accompany it. The name of the cheese derives from the Italian word “stracca”, meaning “tired. It is said that the milk from tired cows coming down from the alpine pastures in the fall, is richer in fats and more acidic. These qualities were discovered, according to legend, in the milk of cows who were moved seasonally, up and down the Alps to different pastures. The milk of such cows gives the cheese its characteristic flavors. It has a mild milky flavour, similar to cream cheese but a bit more acidic, with just a hint of tartness. It just melts in your mouth. When paired with the sauces it became something different all together. I loved it best with the pear and pepper sauce.

The crostini with olive oil was unbelievable. I have never had an olive oil this fruity. The olive oil soaked into the toasted bread and softened it ever so slightly. There were two kinds of farro salads, both with chickpeas. The first had thinly sliced purple onion and was dressed simply with olive oil and sea salt. The second had tomatoes and basil and was also dressed with olive oil and sea salt. I could not get enough of these farro salads. My favourite eat of the day! The chewy nutty farro contrasting with the creamy chickpeas was an unbeatable combination. When I came home I created my own version of this, adding pickled shallots.

Click here to see the recipe for Farro and Chick Peas with Pickled Shallots.

Of course we were served kosher wine, produced by The Pitigliano Cooperative Cellars. It is sold in a winery just outside of town.

We finished with a wild cherry and sheep’s milk ricotta cheese pie.

After lunch we had a chance to tour the wine cellar.

Then it was time to visit the Synagogue.

Once inside the synagogue, one of our friends asked Elisabetta if it would be okay if he could lead our group in the mincha (afternoon prayer) service. To hear Hebrew being sung in this place was very emotional for all of us. This town of mostly Christians wish to honour the memory of the Jewish citizens that once thrived in this place. They feel strongly that it is important to remember and preserve the history and maintain these sites so that it will never be forgotten. It is a very moving tribute that left me feeling very hopeful about a future when all religions can peacefully co-exist.

After we left the synagogue, we felt kind of drained of all our energy, but in a good way. We just wandered around the town, taking it all in. The buildings in this walled city are constructed out of the soft yellow volcanic rock, “tuff.” The cobblestone streets are narrow and the pride the residents take in their homes was beautiful to see.

We discovered that Italian cats like to dine on pasta, elderly men in Pitigliano like to hang out in a group, outside on benches, just like elderly gentlemen all over the world and my friend Philip discovered that the women of Pitigliano are incredible flirts.

Stay tuned for Day 9 when we become totally shallow, abandon all interest in culture and history and visit the Italian outlet malls!

The Best Thing I Ate Today in Umbria Day 7

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Today, thankfully, we had an opportunity to air out our hiking and biking clothes and give our tired aging muscles and bones a bit of a rest, as we were headed off to Florence, by bus, to go sightseeing. We started off in our minibus with Claudio. Once we got off the strada bianca (dirt road) and close to the autostrada (highway), we pulled into a parking lot and switched to a big bus. Claudio was rather excited to be driving the big bus. Now he could really show us his stuff and take it up, over 100 km per hour on the autostrada without the bus getting the shakes.

Our day in Florence included lots of options for everyone to choose from. As you can well imagine, with a group of 18, there are varying interests. The morning options included a Segway tour of Florence or a walking tour with local guide, Simone, starting at the Arno River and ending up at the Jewish Synagogue. Afternoon options included a visit to the Uffizi gallery, a tour of the Duomo or sightseeing on your own. Late afternoon, there was an optional visit to an artisanal chocolate master, for a chocolate making demonstration (and tasting, of course).

I remarked to Cameron and Leif, our B&R guides, that organizing the day in Florence must have been a bit of a challenge. They just looked at each other and laughed. Apparently a spread sheet was involved in order to keep straight where everyone was going and at what times. They were more than a little nervous about losing someone. He said that the swan was a perfect avatar for a B&R guide…all calm and serene on the surface, but paddling like mad below the surface to stay afloat.

This was my second visit to Florence. My first was in 1984, with my sister, after I graduated from University. What I remember most vividly about the city was not the typical sites (the Duomo and The David) but laughing with my sister, eating amazing gelato and buying a beautiful leather purse. Shockingly, I can still remember the name of the ice cream shop, Vivoli Gelato.

Truthfully, this visit was not much different. Switch a sister for a sister-in-law and our day was pretty similar. My sister-in-law, Marion, and I are great friends, but because we live in different cities, we don’t get to spend as much time together as we wish. We decided to just wander on our own and opted out of the afternoon tours. My husband questioned the wisdom of doing this. He said, “You’re here in Florence, don’t you want to visit the famous sites?” When I stopped to think about it, the answer to his question became obvious to me. I said, “Many years from now, when I’m on my deathbed, I doubt that I’ll regret not visiting more of the tourist sites in Florence. But I do know that I will regret not spending more time laughing, eating gelato, shopping, and just hanging out with Marion.”

We ate some incredible coconut gelato (could this be the best thing I ate all day?), bought matching silver woven evening bags, tried on dozens of hats and scarves, took pictures of some really beautiful old doors and flowers and got quite lost looking for the leather market. I have never been known for my sense of direction but I always thought Marion was skilled with a map. Clearly I was mistaken! I think we circled the same several blocks 4 times before we actually realized it. We did, however, make it back in time for the chocolate class.

Our lesson was in the lab of Andrea Bianchini at La Bottega del Cioccolato. Andrea is an award-winning pastry chef and one of Italy’s leading chocolatiers. He greeted us dressed in pristine chef’s whites. He had a ready smile and a little twinkle in his eye. I suspect that he regularly gets himself in just a little bit of trouble with the ladies.

I let out a little yelp when I saw the chocolate tempering machines in the pastry kitchen. He had one for milk chocolate and one for dark chocolate.

In the chocolate tempering process, the cocoa butter molecules within the chocolate are stabilized through a process of heating and cooling that allows the chocolate to harden properly and ensures a shiny finish. Untempered or incorrectly tempered chocolate can be brittle and may appear lackluster, spotted, or blotchy with a whitish film on the surface because the cocoa butter separates from the chocolate and some cocoa butter crystals are visible to the eye. Tempered chocolate will have a nice shine and a “snap” when you bite into it.

The tempering process involves melting the chocolate to about 113° F, then adding some unmelted chocolate and stirring, so that it cools down to 81° F, and then heat it up gently to about 88° F. Then you must maintain this temperature while working.

When I make truffles at home, I do this entire tempering process by hand, using a heating pad to regulate and maintain the temperature of the chocolate. (Click here to see how I do it at home.) I was quite jealous of these tempering machines. The entire tempering process is done by machine. These machines are not inexpensive. A small home model could start at about $500. I can only imagine the cost of these beauties.

We got to try a selection of different chocolates, as well as his version of tiramisu, made with his secret recipe for mascarpone cheese. My favourite was the salted caramel truffle. (Could this be the best thing I ate all day?). He sprinkled a secret ingredient on one of the chocolate bars he made for us. We all licked the chocolates trying to guess what it was he had coated them with. Finally it came to us…Parmesan cheese! I had never thought of that combination before. Unusual, for sure but I’m fairly certain this year’s holiday basket will not contain Parmesan truffles.

The plan was for everyone to meet at the bus at 6:30 and then we would all go on to dinner together from there. When we arrived at the bus, about 10 minutes late, almost everyone was there. Leif had beads of sweat on his upper lip and he and Claudio were exchanging worried, anxious glances. Suddenly Leif’s carefully crafted calm veneer cracked, and he yelled, “OK, everyone on the bus. Now!” We were shocked, but we quickly clambered back onto the bus and took off at top speed. Those already on the bus were in various states of undress, as most of us had brought a change of clothes to wear for dinner. Clothes went flying, lipsticks and earrings went rolling up the aisle of the bus and perhaps someone lost her balance and landed in the lap of the wrong husband. It was chaos.

We later discovered that large tour buses are not permitted inside the old city walls of Florence. Claudio snuck in and was parked illegally. With each passing minute he risked the chance of being caught and getting a huge fine.

Dinner that night was at Cibreo. I had spent quite a bit of time researching where to eat dinner in Florence. Cibreo was very highly recommended by Liria, the owner of the villa we were staying at. What you need to know about Cibreo is that this is not your typical Italian restaurant. There is no pasta on the menu. Actually, there is no menu, but more about that later.

I knew we had made the right choice, when our friends, who live in Milan, joined our group for dinner and told me they were so excited we had chosen this restaurant. They said it is their favourite in Florence and come here for dinner every time they are in town. We began with Prosecco and a small plate of amuse bouche. Now, you have to understand that I have been tasting Prosecco on this trip, like it’s my job. Tough job, I know, but I am doing it for the sake of research so you can benefit from my hard work! I have come to adore Prosecco very late in life. I always thought I didn’t like sparkling wine because all I had ever tasted was Champagne. But Prosecco is so much lighter, fresher and less yeasty than Champagne. I am on a mission to sample as many brands as I can, to come up with a favourite. It seems like I may have found it!I Definitely my favourite of the trip so far.

On the chef’s amuse bouche plate were an egg custard with herbs, smooth delicate and airy, chicken liver crostini that was rich, hearty and oh so silky, and a sun-dried tomato crostini.

Next we were served, what looked like someone had taken a can of Campbell’s tomato soup and emptied it onto a plate. Sort of like a small tomato jelly mould. Made me recall my cooking school days when we had to make aspic! I took a little nibble to be polite and then another and another. Pretty soon we were all licking our plates clean. It was a sort of tomato aspic but nothing like I have ever eaten before. Brilliantly red and kissed with just a touch of red pepper flakes this custard was silky like velvet in texture but tasted like the freshest vine ripened, just picked tomato you have ever tasted.

Then one of the waiters came in with his arms full of long baguettes. Upon closer examination, each baguette had knots tied in both ends so it resembled the femur bone. Bread shaped like bones! Somebody here had an incredible sense of humour. I loved it!

When it came time to order our primi and secondi, a woman entered our private room and pulled up a chair to join us at the table. When she got our attention, she explained that at Cibreo, they don’t have menus. She will recite and explain all the choices for that evening. There were about 7 choices for primi and of course we forgot them all as soon as she finished explaining each in loving detail. We had to get her to recite them about 3 times before everyone was able to decide. She was very good-natured about it. She took our orders and got quite excited when it became obvious that at least one person was going to try each item. Apparently, it upsets her when everyone at the table all order the same thing. I can sort of understand that. I get really annoyed if my husband orders the same thing as I do, because then I can’t taste something different off his plate.

Although I didn’t get to taste everything, I was able to snap a few shots before everyone grew very impatient with me. The first picture is Cibreo’s yellow pepper soup, for which the restaurant is well-known. I managed to find a recipe for it on-line.

Everything I tasted was delicious. The flavours were somehow dense and compact yet light at the same time. Chef Fabio Picchi lets the simplicity of in-season, top quality ingredients speak for themselves.

Award for the best thing I ate all day has to go to the soup I ordered, Pappa al Pomodoro. This is a tomato soup, thickened with bread. They actually served it with a fork! I had to laugh as it made me think of that commercial for Campbell’s Chunky soups…”Thick enough to eat with a fork but use a spoon. You’ll want to get every last drop.” I used some bread to sop up every last bit.

Desserts,which, in my opinion, are usually besides the point at Italian restaurants, really surprised me. Everyone who ordered the orange marmalade cheesecake raved about it. Those who ordered the panna cotta with caramel sauce had no trouble finishing and the few bites of raspberry tart I managed to swipe from my husband’s plate were incredible.

I am trying to figure out how I can get back to Florence as soon as possible to visit this wonderful restaurant.

Stay tuned for Day 8 when we visit Pitigliano, and learn a wonderful lesson about cultural co-existence.

The Best Thing I Ate Today in Umbria Day 6

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This morning we headed out on our little bus, driven by Claudio, to the outskirts of Montepulciano (home of the noble Italian wine by the same name). From there the bikers began their 24 kilometer ride for the day. The hikers headed off on a 6 kilometer trek, taking us through the tiny hamlet of Montichiello, where the plan was to stop and have a cappuccino, before continuing on for a further 3 kilometers.

We arrived in Montichiello, huffing and puffing (the last kilometer was almost entirely uphill!)

Leif got us seated at a charming outdoor café and went inside to get our drinks. Of course coffee means snacks, and he came out with some almond biscotti and these amazing little crispy cookies. I am not quite sure what gave them their crispy texture, but our best guess, after finishing off the entire platter, was cornflakes.

By day 6, our B&R guides were getting to know us quite well, but we still managed to leave Leif shaking his head in amazement this morning when we disappeared after coffee and managed to find the only clothing store in town. Actually, it was the only clothing store within a 25 kilometer radius, from this pastoral little hamlet. Hidden in a little alleyway, just downhill from the café, my sister-in-law managed to sniff out this shop. She has a nose for these kinds of things. Leif was inside paying for the coffee, when she came running back to the café, all excited, and dragged the rest of the women hikers back to the store with her. We spent a good 45 minutes inside that tiny shop, trying on nearly everything they had. I bought the most adorable grey embroidered fall coat (pictured on the left) and a long grey jersey skirt. The shop was filled with beautiful knits and gorgeous, very boho chic clothing. Think of Sienna Miller, Kate Moss and Mary Kate and Ashley and you get the idea. Layered knit dressing.

The boutique is called Madalisa and they have another branch in Pienza. The shop owner spoke no English, so Leif had to come in and translate for us. Imagine my surprise to discover that we were not the only group of women shoppers to succumb to his charms! Check out this YouTube video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOxMvQ-guyU

We hiked the last 3 kilometers of our journey, laden down with shopping bags, but we just pretended they were resistance weights to make our hike more efficient for our arm muscles!

As we rounded the last corner of our hike, we could smell our next stop, Podere Il Casale, before we could actually see it. Not surprising, given that we were about to visit a farm. But this was not your typical farm. Podere Il Casale is an organic farm, run by a very unusual family. Ulisse and Sandra moved to Tuscany from Switzerland over 20 years ago. Along with their five sons, the farm is home to pigs, sheep, cows, goats, a donkey, shepherd dogs, cats, bees and peacocks. They produce cheese, pasta, olive oil, honey and pasta.

The farm overlooks the Val d’Orica and has sweeping majestic views of Monte Amiata. On a clear day you can see all the way to Pienza.

Ulisse and Sandra are very passionate about the “Slow Food” movement. While we were having lunch, Sandra explained that the farm is a member of WWOOOF (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms). This organization links volunteers with organic farmers, and helps people share more sustainable ways of living. In return for volunteer help, WWOOF hosts offer food, accommodation and opportunities to learn about organic lifestyles.

And lunch… what a feast. We had broccoli, tomatoes still warm from the vine that actually tasted like tomatoes, spicy marinated eggplant, roasted peppers glistening in the farm’s own olive oil, farro salad with carrots and sun-dried tomatoes, penne pasta, made here on the farm with tomato sauce, homemade charcuterie, five varieties of cheese and a local red wine that went down way too easily.

After lunch Ulisse gave us a cheese making demonstration. Dressed in a clean white tee shirt, white jeans and white rubber boots he reminded me of a Swiss Mr. Clean. The cheese making facility was even more spotless that Ulisse. He showed us how he heats sheep’s milk and then adds rennet to cause the proteins in the milk to coagulate. Right before our very eyes, we saw curds being formed as they separated from the whey, just like in Little Miss Muffet!

Rennet in case you were wondering is a complex of enzymes, produced in the stomach of all mammals to digest the mother’s milk. Just a warning to you, if anyone ever passes you a jar of rennet, DO NOT take a whiff. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

The curds are cut into larger pieces for the fresher younger cheeses and into smaller pieces for the cheeses that will age longer. The curds are then put into molds to compress them and continue draining. The leftover whey is treated to some citric acid and transformed into ricotta cheese. Any excess whey is fed to the pigs. Nothing is wasted on this farm. After draining for almost 24 hours, the cheeses are given a bath in salt water,. This helps dry out the surface of the cheese and creates the rind.

The wheels of cheese are given different treatments for aging. Some are wrapped in walnut leaves, to impart a nutty flavour to the cheese, others are wrapped in ash, and still others are wrapped in straw. Some are allowed to ferment with San Giovese grapes and the wine flavour seeps right into the cheese.

My favourite cheese of the day, of perhaps ever, was a 2 month old Pecorino, still fresh enough to be slightly creamy and with a nutty saltiness that almost made me swoon. If I close my eyes right now, I can still taste it. Definately a top candidate for the best thing I ate today

After the farm we visited the town of Montepulciano for a bit of retail therapy, and then it was onto dinner at La Frateria di Padre Eligio, a magical 13th Century Monastery, just outside the town of Cetona. It took over 17 years to lovingly and painstakingly renovate and restore this former monastery to its former glory. La Frateria was created to offer moments of tranquillity, reflection and peace to those who feel the need. It serves as a type of rehabilitation centre for young people dealing with drug, alcohol or other sorts of personal crises. Under the auspices of Mondo X, Padre Eligio restored this convent, and several others around the world, as a haven for those in need. It provides these troubled youths with the discipline of a community, which they so desperately need. They garden, bake, cook and clean.

We had aperitivo in a room which contained, for want of a better description, a walk in fireplace. It was huge! My husband, a card-carrying pyromaniac, was busy taking pictures and measurements, trying to figure out how we could build one at our house!

Accompanied by flutes of Prosecco, we feasted on wood-oven baked bread, olive and caper patè, preserves, salted meats, enormous wheels of local cheese and extra virgin olive oil milled by the young people using the original old stone millstones.

This minor feast was followed by a major feast in the dining room. We began with smoked salmon, followed by fragrant saffron risotto and then some tender pillows of homemade ravioli filled with local beans and a pesto sauce. I inhaled them before I had a chance to take a picture. So sorry, just got carried away! For secondi we had a choice between flaky white fish braised in Orvieto wine or Brasato Barolo (veal braised in Barolo wine).

The service was impeccable. The waiters would silently appear before you to refold your napkin, refill your water-glass or whisk away some imaginary crumbs, and then, just as quietly, slink away. It was slightly unnerving and just a little bit creepy. That being said, you have to admire what is being done here to turn around the lives of these troubled youths.

The bus ride back to Casali di Monticchio was, as you can imagine, silent, save for the occasional gentle snoring as most of us slipped into a carb and alcohol induced coma. We were rudely awakened about 10 minutes from the villa when Claudio slammed on his brakes to avoid hitting a giant wild boar. Ah, life in the Umbrian countryside.

Stay tuned for Day 7 when we visit Firenze (Florence) where our well-trained B&R guides almost lose their carefully crafted composure and we eat bread in the shape of a femur bone at one of the best restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of dining in!

The Best Thing I Ate Today In Umbria Day 5

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Today we hiked (and some of us actually braved the hills and biked) to Orvieto. What you need to know about this ancient Umbrian city, which dates back some 3000 years, to the Etruscan era, is that it is perched atop a soaring volcanic plateau. This hilltop town rises high above the green Umbrian valley floor. Needless to say, the hike into Orvieto was mainly uphill! But what a gorgeous scenic climb it was. The bikers took a picturesque 23 kilometer route into Orvieto. The hikers had about a 75 minute uphill climb.

Most tourists coming to Orvieto, go directly to the Duomo, the stunning Gothic Cathedral, sitting in the center of town. However, our group went immediately to the gelato shop. Clearly we have our priorities in order! Our guide Cameron had been telling us all about this artisanal gelateria on our hike into Orvieto. I think it was her virtual carrot to dangle in front of us to keep us climbing those hills. It worked!

Dolceamaro, located at 78 Corso Cavour, was a sight to behold. The gelato flavours were displayed in a spinning glass carousel. Gianduja (chocolate , hazelnut and almonds) cocomero (watermelon), stracciatella (an incredible italian version of chocolate chip) fragola (strawberry), caffe (coffee), liquirizia (black licorice), nocciola (hazelnut), cioccolato (chocolate), limone (lemon) and pesca (peach). I opted for the caffe which was very creamy and intensely coffee flavoured. Just the caffeine pick me up I needed. Cameron bought a few bags of cookies to put away for later when we would need to be coaxed to the next stop. One of the wonderful things about Butterfield and Robinson is that they adapt the itinerary to the group they are leading. These are not cookie cutter tours. Cameron clearly had us pegged very early on.

We met up with the bikers at the Duomo. An incredible example of Gothic architecture, it sits in the center of town, in the main square. The frescoes by Fra Angelico inside one of the chapels are truly breathtaking.

After the Duomo there was an opportuniuty to tour the labyrinth of caves and tunnels that lie below the city. The volcanic rock that the city is built on, known as tuft is quite soft. In the Etruscan era, the Noble families of the city had these tunnels constructed as a means of escape during times of siege. The exit from the tunnels was some distance away from the city walls and the wealthy were able to escape to safety. Several of my friends are a bit claustrophobic and did not want to visit the tunnels, so in the name of friendship, I sacrificed my opportunity to visit the underground world of Orvieto and shopped above ground instead. We got some great dried pastas and bottles of olive oil to take home.

When we were planning the trip and I looked at the first draft of the itinerary, I saw that after touring Orvieto we were scheduled to go to dinner at La Badia, a 12th Century renovated abbey nearby. I had imagined we would go back to our villa and shower and change before dinner. Everyone, especially the bikers really needed to shower. It was explained to me that the road to our villa was a long and bumpy 20 minutes off the main highway. If we were to go back to the villa after being out touring all day, chances are no one would want to climb back onto the bus for another bone jarring ride on the strada bianca (translated it means bumpy dirt road!). So my travel agent, Linda, had the brilliant idea of getting 2 hotel rooms (one for the girls and one for the boys) so everyone could shower and change before dinner.

On the ride over to the hotel Cameron pulled out the bag of cookies she had purchased earlier in the day and we all had a little pre-dinner snack (after all it would be at least an hour until we would be eating again!). Within one bite I knew I had found the best thing I had eaten all day. These were a rich crisp butter cookie scented with cinnamon and heavily studded with slivered almonds. I was ready to ask the bus to turn around and return to Dolceamaro in Orvieto so that I could buy several bags to take home, but knew that I would be quickly outvoted so I kept my mouth shut. I am going to try to recreate these at home because they were just so good.

We arrived at La Badia and all the men scurried off to their hotel room to shower and change. Oh to be a fly on the wall of that room! The 9 women hurried off to their hotel room. They had thoughtfully provided us with extra towels and soap. It was quite a sight to see all these grown women showering, applying make-up and dressing together in a tiny hotel room. it was like being back at sleepover camp. By some amazing miracle we were all fully showered, made-up and changed in 45 minutes. I like to say that we are all very low maintenance women. Some of our husbands may disagree.

The setting was just magical. They had originally planned to do our dinner in the outdoor courtyard, but it was too cool that evening, so we ate indoors. We had a wonderful dinner with lots of laughter. The gnocchi were outstanding, as was the steamed swiss chard (say… I do like swiss chard!!). However, I have to say that the almond cinnamon cookies were definitely the best thing I ate all day.

Stay tuned for Day 6 when we find some incredible shopping in the middle of nowhere (in the tiny hamlet of Montechiello), visit a family run organic farm and learn how to make cheese, and end up in Cetona, eating dinner at a 13th Century convent that now is now home to once troubled youths.

The Best Thing I Ate Today In Umbria Day 4

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Right after breakfast we left the villa and began an “easygoing walk along country roads, toward Cantina Scambia, a local winery.” Well, at least that’s how it was described in our itinerary. We enlisted the services of Butterfield and Robinson, a Toronto based active travel company that specialize in hiking and biking trips all over the world. Their motto is, “Slow down to see the world.” They helped us to custom design our Umbria trip. Our group of 18 ran the gamut from biking enthusiasts who regularly cycle 50-60 kilometers at a time to total couch potatoes (you know who you are!!!). Most of us were comfortably somewhere in between those two extremes.

Today, all 18 of us would be hiking to the winery. They promised an easy downhill hike. Our guides, Cameron and Leif, looked like they came right out of an ad for clean healthy living. Both were American and had spent a considerable amount of time living in Italy. They were personable, funny and interesting to talk to. They seemed so honest and trustworthy. However, looks can be deceiving. They turned out to be liars. This easygoing hike was over 12 kilometers and although mostly downhill, there were a few killer uphills thrown in for fun. Almost all the group managed to hike the entire way. Leif hiked with us and Cameron drove the “Van of Shame” (as one friend nicknamed it). Cameron only had to pick up one or two stragglers.

All kidding aside, it was a beautiful walk. The scenery was rural, pastoral and so serene. Rolling hills, open fields of wheat and sheep. Oh, and there was also a wild boar sighting! Umbria’s nickname is “The Green Heart of Italy.”

We straggled into the winery some 2 hours later. Shocking that upon our immediate arrival at the winery most of us were more excited to see the bottles on the left, rather than those on the right.

The Pinot Nero at Cantina Scambia has received worldwide recognition. The vineyard has been family owned since 1977. They winery extends over 600 acres and there are 3 cellars. One cellar has modern equipment and the other two cellars use more traditional methods. We had a chance to visit the cellars and see and taste !

After the winery tour we were wined and dined in grand style. They were most gracious and generous hosts. While everything was delicious, somehow it was the grapes that I will remember for a very long time. Biting into them released a sweetness like no other I have ever tasted. They were tiny in size but mighty in flavour. The firmness and crunch as I bit into them surprised me. I expected them to be softer. I wanted to take home big bunches of these unbelievable grapes.

Mercifully, we lumbered into the van with Claudio for the ride back to the villa. Time for a quick shower and nap and then we had to prepare for the big birthday celebration. We all gathered in the billiards room at 6:00 for a “surprise”. Laid out on the pool table were medieval costumes for all. We all scurried off to change. Not surprisingly, most of the men needed a short tutorial on the best way to put on their tights. I needed some assistance from my ladies in waiting to lace up the back of my gown.

We had our Aperitivo in the wine cellar and then were led, by drummers and flagmen to dinner.

Possibly one of the best things I ate all day (aside from those grapes that I’m still dreaming about!), was Pecorino cheese from Pienza, with a slice of pear and drizzled with Acacia honey made at our villa. I brought home some of that cheese and served it at our Rosh Hashanah lunch with apples and honey.

Stay tuned for Day 5 when we hike and bike to the ancient Etruscan city of Orvieto. See what happens when 9 women cram into a single hotel room to shower and change for dinner. The outcome of this adventure may surprise you.

The Best Thing I Ate Today in Umbria – Day 3

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I recently took an incredible trip to the Italian region of Umbria. My initial plan was to blog each day I was away, about the best thing I had eaten that day. There is an old Yiddish proverb “Mentsch tracht, Gott lacht”, which roughly translated means, “Man plans, God laughs.”

In case you missed it, the trip started out like this. And then once we finally arrived, a huge thunderstorm knocked out internet service at the villa we were staying at. And, to be quite honest, I was so naive in thinking I could actually choose “The best thing I ate all day.” It was more like the best 10 things I ate today. It became somewhat of a joke among our group of 18. Each time I was about to put something in my mouth, I had to stop and take a photo, and ask myself, “Could this possibly be the best thing I will eat today?”

Needless to say, I did not blog daily. So here is my attempt to summarize our journey.

We finally landed in Rome around midnight, local time. We were met by our driver for the week, a very sweet man named Claudio, and we squeezed our luggage into the mini bus. Our group of 10 from Ottawa had 30 suitcases in total. We are not what you would call light packers. As my daughter says, “I like to have options.”

Our 2 hour drive to “Casali di Monticchio” began. It was smooth sailing on the autostrada for the first part of the trip. But then, we got off the main highway and began a series of climbs, twists and turns through some tiny towns and very narrow roads. It did not inspire confidence to see Claudio make a u-turn and then turn on his reading light and read the directions while driving. The last 20 minutes of the trip were on what is known as a “Strada Bianca”, or “white road. This is the Italian equivalent of a North American gravel dirt road, only with white gravel. Finally, after 20 bone jarring minutes, Claudio pulled into an unmarked driveway, turned off the engine and announced, “Well… if we are not lost, then… we are here.”

And indeed, at 2:00 am, we had arrived. A ghostly apparition in white floated down the steps from the main house to greet us. It was a little spooky, until I realized it was only my sister-in-law, in her nightgown. She had arrived that morning with the other 7 guests from Toronto. She is so sweet, she stayed up, with another friend, to greet us. Out group was not yet tired as it was only 8:00 pm Ottawa time. The owner of our villa, Liria and her daughter Joanna, were there to greet us as well. And what a warm welcome it was.They made us feel like we were guests in their home. They had put out a platters of snacks for us and glasses of welcome Prosecco. We felt very welcome.

We fell asleep almost immediately after our heads hit our 600 thread count Egyptian cotton pillow cases. The next morning, we got up to explore the place. Casali di Monticchio was lovingly restored by Liria Costantino in 2004. When you talk to her about the restoration, her eyes light up as she explains all the hard work and attention to detail that went into the renovation. (not to mention the money!). This stunning relais is set high in the hills close to the border between Tuscany and Umbria. There is a 360° view of the rolling Umbrian hills all the way across to Orvieto. The setting is blissfully remote and serene.

The interior of the place is every bit as beautiful as the setting. Liria’s attention to detail and taste in interior design is impeccable. The fabrics and furnishings chosen create a very intimate environment. The road to Monticchio may be a bit on the rough side, but once you arrive, it’s worth every bump!

For breakfast we started with greek yogurt, berries and the most incredible granola. Joanna, the owner’s daughter took orders for morning drinks. Within a few minutes she amazingly produced Cappuccino, Lattes, Espresso and Cafe Americanos for all. Then out came a huge platter of scrambled eggs, provided by the chickens from the villa’s very own chicken coop.

We spent the morning lounging by the pool and then the bell for lunch rang.

The table on the outdoor patio was set for lunch. We started with an appetizer of roasted red peppers and Romanesco broccoli, with a traditional Piedmont sauce known as Bagna Cauda. (pronounced Banya Cauda) The literal translation is “hot bath”. And indeed, the vegetables were bathed in a warm coating of the most delicious sauce imaginable. Upon questioning Liria, we learned that the sauce is made with olive oil, garlic, cloves, anchovy paste and cream! I practically licked my plate.

That was followed by rigatoni with a light tomato tuna sauce.

The rest of the afternoon was passed in a jet lagged, carb induced coma by the pool. The tranquil silence was disturbed only by the sound of gentle snoring and bees buzzing. They make their own honey at Casali di Monticchio (of course they do!)

That night I learned a wonderful new Italian word, Aperitivo. Aperitivo are pre-dinner drinks accompanied by appetizers. Derived from the Latin aperitivus, to open, aperitivo is meant to stimulate the appetite and tease the taste buds, previewing the delights of dinner. We had Aperitivo in the wine cellar of the villa. Liria had arranged a wine tasting of 3 local wines for us. It was accompanied by pecorino romano cheese and prosciutto. Dinner of beef slowly braised in red wine followed. Dessert was chocolate cups filled with whipped ricotta cheese.

Best thing I ate today… Bagna Cauda sauce.

We convinced Liria to teach us how to make Bagna Cauda. Of course, she does not measure anything, so some guess-work was required on my part.

Click here to print the recipe for Bagna Cauda.

It begins with olive oil, chopped garlic and Liria’s secret ingredient, whole cloves, simmering in a pot. Then she adds anchovy paste and lots of cream and, to quote Liria, “love and patience.” The mixture is simmered over low heat for about 2 hours, until the cream and oil come together and you have a thick sauce. Liria says it is important to stir constantly the entire time. There were 5 of us taking the cooking class from her, so we took turns stirring. She told us that there is actually a kitchen machine that will heat and stir a sauce for you! What will they think of next?

Stay tuned for Day 4 when we take an “easygoing” 12 kilometer hike to Cantina Scambia, a local winery, then return back to the villa for a very special birthday celebration!

Salt and Serenity Hikes the Amalfi Coast Part 2

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Last week I posted about my hiking holiday to the Amalfi Coast. Here is Part 2 of my hiking adventure, where I continue on with my Amalfi Coast top 10 faves.

6. The Blue Grotto

On our second day in Capri we visited the world-famous Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto is one of several sea caves, worldwide, that is flooded with a brilliant blue light. It wasn’t until I got home and researched (you gotta love Wikipedia!!) this amazing phenomenon, that I fully understood the scientific explanation behind this stunning azure colour.

Basically it has to do with the lighting conditions inside the cave. Sunlight, passes through an underwater cavity and shines through the seawater, creating a blue reflection that illuminates the cavern. I am oversimplifying. If you are a science geek and need a more thorough explanation, check out the Wikipedia link above.

To get to the Blue Grotto, we took a motorboat. Let me tell you, “The sea was angry that day my friend.” We all felt more than a little bit seasick. Once we arrived we noticed lots of little rowboats bouncing up and down in the sea.

Our guide told us that we would have to climb out of our heaving big boat, into the even more violently heaving little rowboat in order to get inside the Blue Grotto. WHAT?? Once I took a look at the cave opening into the Blue Grotto, I quickly understood. It was only about 5 feet wide by about 3 feet high!

We managed to climb into our little rowboat without anyone going in for a swim. The oarsmen rowed us towards the opening and in broken English told us that when he gives us the signal, we all have to lie down flat on the bottom of the rowboat. WHAT?? I did not sign up for this. I was terrified. He yelled, “DOWN” and we all crouched. Unfortunately, I was just behind the oarsman and he sat on my head when I lay down. I closed my eyes and prayed. The next thing I know, we hit a huge wave and water sloshed into our boat. Everyone screamed but no one sat up for fear of getting decapitated by the rock over the opening.

Suddenly all was silent. We sat up and looked around. It was eerily calm and the water was still and the most beautiful azure blue you can imagine. Then the oarsmen broke out into a rousing rendition of “O Sole Mio”. After rowing around the cave for about 5 minutes we crouched down again to exit and the whole thing was over.

Before we visited the Blue Grotto, I had heard that the oarsmen had a reputation of being rude and most unpleasant, so I was quite surprised to hear him belting out the tunes. When I asked our guide about this, she started laughing. Apparently our oarsman was cursing up a storm in Italian at his fellow oarsman, something about not getting a big enough tip from his last boatload.

When I got home and googled Blue Grotto, I found that someone had posted a video of the entering of the Blue Grotto. You have to see this!

7. Aperitivo Hour and Bar Snacks

When we got back to our hotel after our Blue Grotto adventure, we needed a drink in the worst way. We stopped by the bar and my husband was quite impressed with the Macallan Scotch selection. We decided to go back to our room have drinks on our little balcony overlooking the sea.

My glass of Prosecco arrived chilled, with a little napkin wrapped around the bottom so the condensation would not mar the furniture. With our drinks they also sent several little bowls filled with potato chips, pistachios, hazelnuts, marcona almonds and olives. In Italy, apparently, this is how drinks are always served, with snacks, even if you don’t order them. How civilized!

8. Buffalo milk yogurt

On the 5th morning of our adventure I made a discovery that kind of startled me. At the breakfast buffet in Ravello there was a bowl filled with ice. Resting on the ice were little containers of Buffalo milk yogurt! I’m not sure why this shocked me so much, after all, they make buffalo milk mozzarella, so why not yogurt? Why not indeed! Thicker than even greek style yogurt and not quite as tangy, buffalo milk yogurt was… well not life changing, but certainly morning changing! I get so excited when I discover a food I have never heard of or tasted before.

I gushed on and on about it to my daughter but she just rolled her eyes at me and helped herself to the regular cow’s milk yogurt. I mixed mine with diced peaches, ripe berries and granola. I need a buffalo.

9. Sentieri degli Dei

In English this translates into “Path of the Gods”. On the fourth day of our adventure we got a glimpse of what the path to heaven looks like! We drove high up into the Lattari Mountains and began our hike in the town of Bomerano. There we met our guide for the day, Amalfi naturalist Nicola, or “Mountain Man” as we nicknamed him. I was very excited to begin our hike since today was the first day we got to use our hiking sticks! I felt so athletic swinging my stick until Nicola warned us not to swing it too high or we might poke out the eye of whoever is behind us. Oops, sorry my darling children.

The path, about 1900 feet above sea level goes from Bomerano to the town of Nocelle, and then straight down, 1500, steps into Positano. It is a rugged goat path along the coastal edge and not for the faint of heart or those who suffer from acrophobia. Nicola pointed out wild fennel, wild arugula as well as about 25 other kinds of flora and fauna. He thoughtfully pointed out poison plants and ones that, while they may not kill you, will leave you itching and crying for mercy for several days. We carefully stepped around those. The views of the Mediterranean Sea were breathtaking.

He explained how the steep mountainside had been carved into terraces over the years to allow farmers to grow olives, lemons, nuts and grapes. The fact that this had been done, and still continues to be done, in current times, with hand tools and paths that can only be accessed by donkeys and mules is nothing short of astonishing.

Our guide had told us that we would be having lunch along the way. I kept eyeing Nicola’s backpack and it did not look like it contained anything close to lunch for six hungry adults. I must admit, I was a little worried that lunch was going to be trail mix and water. However, around 12:30, we rounded a corner and came upon an oasis in the middle of the mountain.

An old renovated stone hut sat on a plateau in the middle of nowhere and our hosts greeted us like long-lost relatives. The stone BBQ was hot and smokin’ and the smells emanating from it were intoxicating. All my worries about a trail mix lunch evaporated away. On a hill, above the hut was a picnic table positioned perfectly to take in the view. The table was set and platter upon platter of grilled foods were presented to us. We began with grilled onions and potatoes, then grilled zucchini and grilled pumpkin appeared. Homemade thinly sliced salami was served with meaty green olives and fresh mozzarella. A beautiful platter of Caprese salad disappeared almost as quickly as it had appeared.

Just when we thought we couldn’t eat another bite, grilled homemade fennel sausage and grilled smoked scamorza cheese with lemon appeared. We murmured, ever so quietly, that we couldn’t eat another bite but somehow, the sausage and cheese disappeared too. The homemade local red wine went down way too easily and the ceramic pitcher it was being poured from was magically refilled more than once. I felt like I was at a Hogwarts feast.

10. The Italians name geological formations after food!

As we were walking the Path of the Gods, our guide pointed out a huge rock formation with a cave at the bottom of it. She said it was called “Grotta del Biscotto”, (cave of the biscuit), so named because the craggy surface of the rock resembles the local specialty biscotto. Biscotto is a hard small bread that is baked twice, so that it dries out and lasts for an entire year. Then it is soaked in water and eaten, usually in a soup or part of a salad. I just love that food is so embedded in Italian life and culture, that it extends into nature as well.