Pomegranate Glazed Donuts

When the über talented Elizabeth Young of Flowers Talk, emailed me about doing a collaborative post, putting together her flowers and my food, I was game. She suggested  we tackle a Chanukah theme. I have been a customer of Elizabeth’s for a long time, and she has an amazing eye for colour and design. Plus, she is just a lovely person. She’s much younger than me and has been giving me pointers on how to grow my Instagram account, encouraging me to reveal a bit of the chaos that my kitchen becomes on shoot days.

As I thought about what food I would feature, I immediately discarded latkes. Too predictable. I wanted something pretty to match the beauty of her flowers. My inspiration for these rose-hued donuts comes from the Israeli custom of celebrating Chanukah with “Sufganiyah” (jelly donuts). I decided to make two kinds of donuts. The first, I’d dip in a tart pomegranate glaze. The second, I’d fill with a pomegranate curd. I’ll post them in a few days. Making pomegranate curd is a tricky endeavour!

This year, Chanukah begins on the eve of Sunday December 2. I have often heard people describe Chanukah as the “Jewish Christmas.” It’s easy to understand this misconception as both holidays emphasize lights, miracles, family time and food. While Christmas and Chanukah both occur in December, the reasons for the celebrations are not at all the same.

Christmas celebrates the birth of Jesus, the son of God. A miracle, to say the least!

Hanukkah is a celebration of a different kind of miracle. Hanukkah celebrates the military victory of the Israelites, over the Syrian Greeks. Under Syrian-Greek rule, Jews were oppressed and not allowed to practice their religion openly. Against all odds, a small tribe of faithful Jews defeated one of the toughest armies on earth, drove the Greeks out, reclaimed their Holy Temple in Jerusalem and rededicated it. When they went to light the Temple’s menorah they found only a single vial of olive oil that had escaped contamination by the Greeks. Miraculously, the one-day supply burned for eight days. In memory of this miracle, a national holiday was born. They called it Chanukah, which translates to rededication.

Jews around the world celebrate Chanukah by eating foods fried in oil to commemorate this miracle. 

Elizabeth delivered her flowers just as i was mixing up my icing. I think my glaze was a perfect match. I topped these beauties with Edible gold glitter, because we’re fancy around here! (Truthfully, I found a jar of it at the back of my baking cupboard. Can’t recall why I bought it, but it sure is pretty!)

Click here to print recipe for Pomegranate Glazed Doughnuts.

 

 

 

Short Rib Pot Pie with Potato Crust

I have a bit of a weakness for food in miniature. Their diminutive size just makes me smile. Remember these, and these and how about these? These little short rib pot pies are freaking adorable! Such a  clever idea to top them with thinly sliced potatoes. Wish I had thought of it, but the credit has to go to Martha on this one. Her version featured stout braised short ribs. I’m not a huge stout fan, so I used my favourite short rib recipe, from Chef Anne Burrell, which features red wine as the braising liquid.

After braising the ribs, remove the meat from the bones and shred it. You can use 2 forks, or just go at it with your hands. Mix the shredded meat back into the braising liquid. If you braise the ribs the day before you want to serve this, you can chill the ribs and braising liquid overnight and then just skim the hardened fat off the top of the braising liquid.

You could of course just make one large pie, in an 8×11 inch casserole dish, but mini ones are way more fun! Plus, leftovers can be frozen and stored for busy days when you just don’t have time to cook.

I used Yukon Gold potatoes because I wanted that gorgeous buttery yellow colour. I washed them really well and didn’t even bother peeling. They need to be sliced very thin. I used a mandoline. I love this one. Not too expensive and you don’t need an engineering degree to operate it. I have tried several brands and this one is my favourite from a performance and ease of use standpoint.

Arrange the potatoes over the beef. Overlap them so that at least 3/4 of the previous potato is covered. You want a tight concentric circle. The potatoes are quite thin so overlapping them prevents them from burning before the filling is hot and bubbling.

Brush with a flavourful olive oil and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Potatoes need lots of seasoning. Make sure you bake them on a rimmed baking sheet as the juices bubble up and over and cleaning your oven floor is not fun.

45 minutes later these golden beauties will emerge from the oven. A few fresh thyme leaves would be a pretty finish. Pour a big glass of a full-bodied red wine and congratulate yourself for making such a gorgeous dinner.

Click here to print recipe for Short Rib Pot Pie with Potato Topping.

 

Arugula Apple Salad with Spiced Cider Vinaigrette

One Friday night, about a month ago, my cell phone began pinging furiously with text messages from my mom and four sisters. Our last mass text convo was when my brother sent out a group email to all his sisters with the subject “Mom passed.” He was referring to her driver’s licence renewal test, not her life. He immediately heard from all his sisters.

This text chat was much less controversial. Apparently my daughter brought an apple salad to a family dinner that I wasn’t able to attend. They all raved about it, assumed I had given her the recipe and wanted me to forward it to them. I couldn’t take credit for this salad. My daughter got the recipe from Ingrid Beer’s blog, thecozyapron.

Ingrid used frisée lettuce, arugula, honeycrisp apples and candied walnuts in her recipe. My adaptation kept the arugula and apples but I added spiced pecans and pistachios, radicchio, Belgian endive and pomegranate seeds. I mixed in some Gruyere cheese  because I think that apples and Gruyere are a match made in heaven.

Feel free to make the salad your own. Goat cheese would be great. Pears would be a nice change from the apples. I did not change anything in the dressing. It is perfect exactly as created by Ingrid. It has become my new house dressing.

You’ll be hooked from the first forkful!

Click here to print recipe for Arugula Apple Salad with Spiced Cider Vinaigrette.

 

Speculoos Apple Crisp

Here’s what date night looks like after 34 years of marriage. Gone are the days of candlelit dinners in the dining room at home. We stand at the kitchen island. He is peeling 12 pounds of apples and I am dicing them up to convert them into mini apple crisps for the freezer. We used to cook together all the time when we first started dating. But then I became a professional cook and took over kitchen duties. I had forgotten how nice it is to cook together. Granted, the CFL weekly highlights were on TV in the background, but still, it was quality time.

I had a big bag of my go-to crisp topping in the freezer so making these went really quickly. We still had about 5 mini crisps left to cover with the crumble, but we ran out of topping. I found a bag of oat crumble in the freezer, leftover from my Maple Crunch Birthday cake. My husband suggested we top the remaining apples with this topping so we tried it. We baked the tray of crisps and had a taste test. The oat crumble topping was fantastic.I played around with the recipe a bit and had the brilliant idea of using Speculoos cookies instead of oatmeal cookies. Gingersnap cookies would make an excellent substitute if you can’t find Speculoos (also called Biscoff). I added some chopped pecans and rolled oats for a bit more texture. This crisp topping is sweet but with a spicy ginger bite. A perfect complement to the apples.

With a scoop of vanilla ice cream, they were the perfect end to date night.

Click here to print recipe for Speculoos Apple Crisp.

 

Roasted Spiced Salmon and Tomatoes

As we enter the season of butter, sugar and peace on earth, I thought it would be a good idea to post something healthy to counteract all the treats that come our way this time of year. Prep time is minimal for this dish and you can get dinner on the table in less than 30 minutes. Bookmark it for those busy days ahead. In addition to being fast and delicious, it is also very pretty and would make a great dish for entertaining.

The inspiration for this dish comes from Donna Hay. I adapted it slightly. She cooked the fish en papillote, which involves wrapping each piece of salmon in parchment paper. It’s a great technique for lean cuts of protein like white fish and chicken breasts, but I didn’t think it was necessary for salmon, which is quite high in healthy omega 3 fats.

Since you’re turning on the oven already, add a tray of roasted grape tomatoes. The acid-sweet balance of these are  perfect with the rich salmon. Once the tomatoes are in the oven, get working on the fish. Thinly slice some lemons to make a base for the fish fillets. The spice mixture is a blend of smoked paprika, red pepper flakes, honey and olive oil. Finish with a sprinkle of coarse salt. I found a jar of pretty pink Himalayan  salt at HomeSense last week!
Scatter some fresh basil and chopped olives on the roasted fish and dinner is done.

Click here for recipe for Roasted Spiced Salmon and Tomatoes.

 

 

Yellow Split Pea and Parsnip Soup

If I’m being completely honest, I need to tell you that this soup was inspired by a bag of parsnip chips from Trader Joe’s!

As I crunched my way through the entire bag, it occurred to me that these salty and slightly sweet chips would be a welcome bit of crunch crumbled on top of a creamy parsnip soup. Luckily I had the foresight to buy two bags. I found a forgotten jar of yellow split peas in the cupboard and decided to use them as the soup base.

After shooting all day, the last thing I want to do it eat is whatever I have been photographing. I have usually plated it 3-4 different ways, transferred it from bowl to plate to mug to see what looks better and by the time I am finished, I never want to see that food again. Depending on what it is, I will either deliver it to a friend, send it off to my husband’s office or wrap it up and stick it in the freezer.

The recipe for this soup makes a big pot so it’s perfect for freezing, and pulling out on those nights when you just can’t face cooking.
Parsnips are an under-utilized vegetable. I love them roasted but they make a stellar soup ingredient. They have an mild spice flavour, reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon.

Start by sautéing the all-powerful culinary trio of onions, carrots and celery and add a heaping pile of diced parsnips.
Ground cumin and smoked paprika really complement the slightly earthy flavour of parsnips.

Packed with fibre and protein, yellow split peas will make a healthy counterbalance to the parsnip chip garnish!

Vegetable stock was my liquid of choice.

Click here to print recipe for Yellow Split Pea and Parsnip Soup.

 

 

Autumn Butternut Squash and Ricotta Tartine

A funny thing happens when your adult children come home for a visit. In July, my daughter moved into the cottage with me for most of the summer. I was thrilled about it, as we live in different cities, and I don’t get to see her as much as I’d like.

The kitchen starts filling up with things you don’t recall buying. My fridge boasted 3 varieties of kombucha, (cosmic cranberry, ginger berry and multi-green) 2 packages of probiotic capsules (for making non-dairy coconut yogurt), Croatian organic artisan chocolate (that tasted like wax, to my palate) and Skyr, which I’m still not sure how to pronounce properly.

The tea drawer (yes, we have an entire drawer devoted to tea), filled up with several varieties of ginger tea as well as some turmeric concoction. The pantry shelves featured 2 flavours of muesli, collagen powder and All-Dressed Chips.

One morning I opened my spice drawer and saw a rogue shaped jar of  something called New Bae Seasoning. I decant all my spices into the same shape jar, and file them alphabetically. Please don’t judge me, it’s how I keep my serenity.When I asked my daughter about it she excitedly told me that it’s a blend of different spices (Himalayan Pink Salt, Paprika, Celery, Black Pepper, Ancho Chili Powder, Cayenne, Cardamom, Allspice, Mace, Bay Leaves), and makes everything you put it on taste better. That night we sprinkled some on diced sweet potatoes and roasted them. I was hooked. We used it all summer on fish, chicken and all our roasted and grilled veggies. It was even delicious sprinkled on top of hummus. When she left at the end of the summer, she took her jar with her, but left me the probiotic capsules!

I ordered my own jar, online at purefeast.com .   A few other online retailers carry it as well, but they seem to be out of stock when I last checked.

Here’s how to make these delicious tartines (that’s french for open-faced sandwich, because we’re fancy around here!)

I used butternut squash and sliced it very thin. Use your favourite fall veggie. Roasted broccoli would also be delicious.
Make sure you start with some really good bread and toast or grill it, so that it’s crunchy.  I found a new bakery in my neighbourhood here in Ottawa that sells amazing artisan breads. If you’re in Ottawa, check our Mamie Clafouti’s on Richmond Rd.
If you have an extra 15 minutes, make your own ricotta. I will include the recipe in the link below. But if time is tight, use store-bought. It will still be really good. Choose an assertive green to top your tartine with. I found micro arugula, but regular arugula or some shredded radicchio would be good choices. You want something bitter to counter balance the spicy-sweet squash and mild ricotta. A drizzle of honey is an excellent way to finish.

Click here to print recipe for Autumn Ricotta and Squash Tartines.

Chewy Browned Coconut Butter Cookies

These cookies are vegan. If you don’t follow a vegan lifestyle, I realize that’s probably not the best opening line if I’m trying to pique your interest and keep you reading this post, but stay with me here. I promise you it will be worth it.

My experiences with vegan baking have been lacklustre. I will take the proffered sweet, politely take a bite, and say “it’s good”. And what I really mean is, it’s good, for vegan. You need that qualifier.

With these cookies, that qualifier is not necessary. These cookies are good. Actually, they’re great. They’ve become one of my favourite cookies. And that’s high praise coming from someone who has over 75 cookie recipes on her blog.The secret ingredient is coconut butter, not to be confused with coconut oil. Coconut oil is just the oil extracted from coconut, whereas coconut butter is ground-up coconut. Coconut butter is available at many health food stores, and online, or you can make it yourself. The talented Dana, over at at minimalist baker has a foolproof recipe.

Those clever folks over at Cooks Illustrated figured out that if you melt and cook the coconut butter, it becomes brown and nutty and delicious. Right out of the jar, it’s almost pure white.Give it some heat and about 7 minutes and this is what happens. And big bonus, your house will smell amazing!No need to pull out the mixer for these cookies. Just stir everything together in a big bowl. You need all purpose flour, of course. Some brown sugar adds to the chewiness. Baking soda and baking powder give lift. No eggs or butter are needed. The coconut butter holds these cookies together. Oh, and don’t forget a pinch of salt!Pro-tip: Use an ice cream scoop to get even sized cookies that will bake evenly. Gently flatten the cookies and sprinkle lightly with flaky sea salt. Not too much, as you’ll add more after dipping in chocolate.The original recipe at Cook’s Illustrated did not include dipping them in chocolate, but coconut and chocolate just belong together! I tempered my chocolate for dipping, and if you have an instant read thermometer and a bit of patience, you should temper your chocolate as well.

Tempering the chocolate before dipping will give the cookies a smooth, glossy evenly coloured coating. Biting into into the chocolate coating, will produce that crisp satisfying snap . Without the tempering process, the cocoa butter separates out and you get a streaky, dull grey coating. I give detailed instructions on how to temper, in the recipe.

Click here to print recipe for Chewy Browned Butter Coconut Cookies.

Maple Crunch Birthday Cake

What I love best about my birthday is making my own cake. I spend weeks before the actual day pondering flavours and textures. Buttercream is not optional, it is a requirement. While some people might think it’s a little sad to have to bake your own birthday cake, I disagree. I get exactly what I want, and get so much joy creating it.

If you’re looking for a one bowl “dump and stir” cake, this is not the post for you. My birthday cake  has many elements and usually takes the better part of a day.

This year’s cake is a “virtual collaboration” between Anna Olson, Rose Levy Beranbaum and me! I started with Anna’s Classic Vanilla Birthday Cake, which is a perfect canvas for everything. I had my heart set on a maple cake. I thought it would be a good idea to substitute maple sugar for the granulated sugar in the recipe to really intensify the maple flavour. I was wrong. I have never baked with maple sugar before, but the texture is different from that of traditional granulated sugar, and it resulted in a crumbly cake that tasted really strange. When I remade it with granulated sugar, it turned out perfectly. Moist and light with a beautiful tender crumb.

Next I moved onto the buttercream. I decided to make Rose Levy Beranbaum’s Neoclassic Buttercream, which is basically a French buttercream that uses egg yolks and butter. This is not a buttercream for the faint of heart. We’re not fooling around here . This is straight-up rich and luxurious. Rose suggests that you can replace the corn syrup for maple syrup and that’s what I did. Rich and silky , practically exploding with intense maple flavour.
 
The final component of my cake is the addition of a layer of crunch. I love a cake that combines texture. I crumbled up some Dad’s Oatmeal Cookies (because maple and oatmeal!!!!) and mixed them with malted milk powder (the umami bomb of the baking world, as Stella Parks is fond of saying), a bit of sugar, some melted butter and a pinch of salt.
Mix the crumb mixture until clumps form. Bake and cool. The finished crumble is crunchy and very addictive. It reminds me of the clumps in granola. The recipe makes more than you will need, so there is some leftover for snacking!

Click here to print recipe for Maple Crunch Birthday Cake.

Roast Chicken 101

This summer, my daughter asked me how to roast a whole chicken. It dawned on me, that there is a whole generation of young adults out there who have no idea how to do this. Now, in her defence, she was a vegetarian up until a few years ago, so she never really paid attention to meat cookery when she was growing up.

That conversation was the impetus for this post. I gathered paper, pencil, measuring cups, spoons and a scale so that I could accurately record, exactly what I do. Since I roast chickens so frequently, I don’t normally measure. I just do it on autopilot.

Start with a 3 1/2 -4 pound chicken. If it is at all possible, buy a kosher chicken, as the salt added during the koshering process makes the meat juicier and more flavourful. Slice a lemon in half and stuff it inside the cavity of the bird. Tie up the legs with some kitchen twine. That will help the chicken roast more evenly. Then, shower that bird with a mix of kosher salt, pepper and paprika. Sometimes I used smoked paprika. Let the chicken sit on the counter while you get everything else ready.

Since you’re turning on the oven, you may as well roast some veggies with the chicken. I used shallots, carrots and mini potatoes. Feel free to use whatever you like. Squash, leeks, sweet potatoes and parsnips would all be good ideas. A few sprigs of thyme and rosemary are a winning flavour addition. A whole head of garlic, halved is also an option, if that’s how you roll.
If you plan to use potatoes, boil them first, for about 15 minutes, just until they begin to get tender. Then gently break the skin and flatten slightly with a fork or potato masher. This give you more potato surface area to get crispy.
If you have a 12- inch cast iron frying pan, or any enamel cast iron roasting pan (ie: Le Creuset) their hear retention properties make them the perfect roasting vessel. While you’re getting everything ready, place the empty roasting pan or skillet into the oven while you are preheating it.

Carefully place chicken into hot pan and surround it with veggies,. Drizzle it all with olive oil.
Roast it for about 60-65 minutes, until an instant read thermometer, inserted into the thickest part of the thigh (careful not to touch bone) registers 165°F.

The most important instruction I will give you is to let the chicken rest for 20 minutes before serving. This will give you time to turn the pan juices into a little sauce if you want. Complete instructions for doing this are in the recipe link.

Click here to print recipe for Roast Chicken 101.