Author Archives: saltandserenity

Turtle Ice cream

The inspiration for this ice cream came from Turtles Chocolates. Creamy caramel and crunchy pecans coated in rich chocolate. Mmmmmm, I love turtles. When I told my husband I was creating Turtle Ice cream, he had no idea what I was talking about. Clearly, his mother did not have a candy drawer in the living room where she “hid” the chocolates that were meant for company.

Of course that drawer was a magnet for my sisters and I. We’d try to quietly sneak chocolates, but the drawer had a brass knocker handle that would clunk every time we opened and closed the drawer. The variety box of chocolates would be filled with half-eaten cherry and cream filled chocolates. All the nut and caramel ones were gone. My mother would be so embarrassed and angry at us when she went to serve the chocolates to company. Ah, sweet childhood memories!

Turtles were the most coveted box in the drawer and it was always filled with empty candy cups. For my version of Turtle Ice Cream, I started with a base of salted caramel ice cream from Rose Levy Beranbaum’s book, “Rose’s Ice Cream Bliss.” You will need an ice cream machine to make this recipe.

The blogosphere is awash with quick, no-churn ice cream recipes. Essentially, no churn ice cream does not contain eggs, and relies on sweetened condensed milk to thicken the ice cream. The big draw to most of these recipes is that they do not require an ice cream machine. You just mix the ingredients and freeze. Sound perfect until you taste the ice cream. No matter what flavour you add, I find that the sweetened condensed milk overpowers everything. Plus, it has a strange texture. I don’t understand the appeal.

Rose’s recipe is extremely detailed and fool proof. She walks you through all the steps and explains why things work. I’m a big fan. Her first book “The Cake Bible” is the most dog eared book on my shelf. Published in 1988, it has stood the test of time.

I dipped the top of the sugar cones with melted chocolate and rolled it in toasted pecans, because we’re fancy here at saltandserenity. Plus, it makes a pretty picture. It’s all in the details.

To the base of salted caramel ice cream, I added buttered toasted pecans and chunks of caramel candy. You can make your own caramel candy, or just buy the Kraft caramels and cut them into quarters. For the chocolate, I envisioned ribbons of hot fudge sauce rippling through the ice cream. I made a simple hot fudge sauce and layered it through the ice cream before freezing. Then I drizzled on some extra after scooping.

Wild Blueberry Streusel Coffee Cake

I last blogged about this cake 10 years ago and while the recipe has stood the test of time, my photography has not. Here are a few images from then. Don’t you just love a good makeover?

Chances are, unless you live in the northeastern area of North America, it is unlikely you have ever experienced the wonder of a fresh from the bush wild blueberry. They differ wildly (pun intended!) from their sibling, the cultivated blueberry. They are smaller, sweeter and more flavourful. The majority of them are frozen and used by commercial bakers all over North America. But, if you are lucky to live in The Maritime provinces, Ontario, Quebec or Maine, you will understand why I squeal with joy when they finally arrive in late July each summer.

In our increasingly global economy, where you can get anything at any time of year, fresh wild blueberries remain one of the few holdouts! They are only available late July-September. And for that I am grateful. There is something to be said for delayed gratification. Sure, you can get cultivated blueberries all year long, from other parts of the world, but nothing compares to the sweetness and burst of blueberry flavour that explodes in your mouth when you eat the wild ones.

I have only ever met one person who does not prefer the wild ones over the cultivated…my mom! She says the wild ones are too small. But I still love her anyways!

This cake is moist and dense thanks to the addition of sour cream. It is studded with tons of little blueberries and the topping is a crunchy concoction made from pecans, oats, butter, brown sugar, flour and maple syrup. And the crunch from the topping is still just as crunchy on day 2, should there be any leftovers.

There are those who believe that it is a crime to bake with wild blueberries. They are purists and feel that the wild ones should be saved for eating raw and that coercing them into a baked good is heresy. They postulate that only cultivated blueberries should be used for baking. To that group of extremists I say, “Try the grey stuff, it’s delicious!” If you have ever created a muffin or cake with cultivated blueberries, you know of the baking fiasco I refer to. They burst during baking  turning the whole cake a disgusting shade of greyish blue. Wild blueberries are well behaved. They hold their shape perfectly during baking and do not explode.

While each summer I certainly I eat more than my body weight in raw wild blueberries, mixed with Greek yogurt and Double Coconut Granola, I defend the right to use them in baked goods  as well.

You could also bake these in muffin tins as mini streusel coffee cakes. Just don’t let wild blueberry season pass without making these. If you can’t find fresh wild blueberries, frozen will be fine. No need to defrost. Loblaws (Canada) and Trader Joe’s (USA) both carry frozen wild blueberries.

Labneh with Dukkah Topping

Move over hummus, there’s a new dip in town. Bold statement, I know, but hear me out. Labneh is essentially yogurt strained past the point of even Greek yogurt, until it is ultra-thick. Middle Eastern in origin, it is often referred to as yogurt cheese. Lush and creamy, the texture is somewhere between cream cheese and fresh chevre.

If there is a Middle Eastern store in your area, you can probably buy labneh. If not, it’s easy to make your own. Mix whole milk (5%) plain yogurt (not Greek) with some salt, and strain it in cheesecloth for 24-48 hours.

Labneh is so versatile. You can spread it on toast, drizzle with honey and toasted hazelnuts and have it for breakfast. It’s a great substitute for mayo as a sandwich spread. Check out these other delicious creative ideas to use labneh.

My favourite way to eat labneh is as a dip. I love textural contrast in my food, so I topped this lush creamy dip with crunchy dukkah.

Dukkah is a Middle Eastern nut and spice mix. The first time I had it was at Mahane Yehuda Market  (The Shuk) in Jerusalem. Vendors there sell small paper cones filled with dukkah, along with strips of grilled pita bread.  You dip the bread into the vendor’s bowl of olive oil, dunk it into the cone of dukkah and then joyfully crunch and munch your way to a very happy place. (Obviously, this was before the pandemic! No one would dip their pita into a communal bowl of olive oil these days.)

The name dukkah originates from the Egyptian word “dakka,” which means “to crush,” which is what you do to many of the ingredients that go into the mix. There really is no classic recipe for dukkah. Just follow the basic ratio of 1 cup nuts: 1/2 cup sesame seeds: 4 tablespoons spices: 1 teaspoon kosher salt.

This dukkah combination was inspired by a recipe in the Summer 2020 issue of the LCBO magazine, Food & Drink. Almonds, walnuts, and pistachios provide the crunch while fennel seed, cumin, coriander and sumac provide the spice notes. Go wild and create your own custom Dukkah mix.

You will only need about 1/4-1/2 cup of dukkah to sprinkle over the labneh. Save the extra in the freezer and use it to coat fish or chicken for baking.

Warmed pita bread cut into wedges makes the perfect dipping companion. If you live in Ottawa, you need to buy Thyme and Again’s spiced pita chips (pictured here). They are addictive.

Add a bowl of salted nuts and some marinated olives and you have a perfect snack to serve with drinks.

Roasted Cherries and Whipped Ricotta Tartines

Tartine is defined as an open faced sandwich, usually on toasted bread. It has come to mean “fancy toast”, as made popular by the charming Carrie Baird, one of my favourite cheftestants on Top Chef.

Tartines are an opportunity to use up all these little bits in the fridge and pantry, and call it dinner. This one came about because I had some cherries that were starting to go a bit soft. Cherries might not be the first fruit you think about roasting, but the heat of the oven causes the natural sugar in the cherries to caramelize resulting in a greater depth and intensity of cherry flavour!

I had a mix of Rainer and Bing cherries. Rainer cherry season is so short, I always get greedy and buy way more than we can possibly eat. This is a perfect solution for those leftover, slightly less than perfect cherries.

I seasoned the cherries with olive oil, a drizzle of honey and some thyme. They only take about 10 minutes in the oven. I was inspired by The Flavour Bible to pair cherries with thyme. It’s such an excellent resource book.

The whipped ricotta is an Ina Garten recipe. She starts with homemade ricotta, but gently tells us that store bought is fine. I had half a container of store bought, about to expire, languishing at the back of the middle shelf in my fridge, so I used that. The ricotta is mixed with a bit of feta, some cream cheese and a splash of lemon juice. It all gets buzzed in the food processor, for a creamy, tangy whipped dip.

I sliced up a baguette, on the diagonal, and toasted the slices, because we’re fancy here at salt and serenity. Leftover toasted sourdough slices would be very delicious.

Pesto Eggs

A few weeks ago, my daughter mentioned that she cooked fried eggs in pesto, instead of butter. She had seen someone make them on TikTok, and tried it with great results. Took me a few minutes to wrap my head around the concept, but it makes sense, because of the high oil content in pesto. Essentially, you’re just cooking the eggs in a flavoured oil.

I made a little video to show you how it all comes together. Store bought pesto is fine, but if you want to make your own, I have included a recipe below. I have so much basil in my garden now, I’m making pesto with abandon. I like to switch it up and try different nuts, instead of the traditional pine nuts. I love it with pistachios or walnuts. Just toast your nuts first please.

Roasted tomatoes make a fine accompaniment. I often find the little ones on the vine at Loblaws. It makes such a pretty presentation. Lightly drizzle tomatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast in a 400°F oven to 10-15 minutes, just until they start to split open.

Brown Butter Oatmeal Cornflake Cookies

When Robyn over at Sweetish Co. posted about these cookies on Instagram a few weeks ago, my brain went on high alert. Oatmeal and cornflakes together in the same cookie? Sounded like breakfast to me!

I tweaked her recipe a bit and browned the butter first. Brown butter is the like the secret sauce of baked goods. It amplifies all the flavours. It adds depth, richness and a nutty caramel flavour to these cookies. Browning butter is not difficult, but you do need to allow some time to brown and then chill it, before making the dough.

I also added some raisins to the cookie dough, because according to my family, raisins are mandatory in oatmeal cookies. I think that they would also be excellent with dried tart cherries instead of raisins. If you are a more is more kind of person, a handful of milk or blonde chocolate chunks would not be amiss. I think that dark chocolate would be too overpowering though.

Butter is composed of butterfat, milk protein and water. When you brown butter, you are essentially toasting the milk protein. As you heat the butter, and it begins to bubble and sputter away, the water evaporates and the hot butterfat begins to cook the milk solids, turning them from creamy yellow to a splendid speckled brown colour and your whole kitchen smells like toasted hazelnuts. It’s insanely gorgeous!

Pro tip: If you want to adjust any of your cookie recipes to incorporate brown butter, remember that as the water evaporates during the browning process, the butter loses some moisture, 15-20-% loss. You need to make up for that lost moisture by adding some water to the dough. For every 113 grams (1 stick) of butter you brown, add 1 tablespoon water to the dough.

Although you can certainly bake the cookies right after making the dough, I would encourage you to chill the dough overnight. A 12-24 hour rest will really result in a better cookie. Chilling cookie dough does 3 things:

  1. Helps control spreading: Chilling solidifies the butter in the dough. Butter in chilled cookie dough takes more time to melt than butter in room temperature dough. The longer the butter stays solid, the less the cookies spread.
  2. Affects Flavour: As the dough spends time in the fridge, it dries out, thus concentrating the flavours of all the ingredients, and resulting in a more delicious cookie.
  3. Affects texture: Chilling allows the dry ingredients time to absorb the wet ingredients in the dough. This change in texture results in a chewier cookie with crispy edges. Cookies baked right after making the dough tend to be softer and doughier.

If you are a member of my youngest sister’s family, please feel free to omit the sprinkling of Maldon sea salt flakes. (Imagine my excitement when I discovered the jumbo tub!) The rest of you, please sprinkle a few flakes on each cookie before baking. It’s sublime.

Let me know if you bake these and what you think.

Hearty Kale Dinner Bowl

If you’ve been reading my blog for a while now, it’s no secret that I love breakfast for dinner. There is something about those typical morning foods that seem to soothe and calm me. Just think about it. By the end of the day, when we’re feeling tired and a little bit overwhelmed, we need some serenity. I think there is also some sort of illicit pleasure in breaking the rules. I’m an adult now, and I can eat breakfast for dinner if I want!

When I saw Tim Robinson’s recipe for “Hearty Kale breakfast Bowl” on thefeedfeed.com, I knew I wanted to have it for dinner. I adapted his recipe slightly, adding in some butternut squash and seasoning it with smoked paprika and garlic. It takes about 35 minutes to roast the potatoes and squash, but during that time, you can prepare the other bowl ingredients.

The bitterness of the kale is perfectly balanced by the fatty richness of creamy avocado and oozy egg yolk. The cubes of potato and squash turn into crispy little nuggets. Crumbled feta adds a hit of salt. Don’t skimp on the red pepper flakes! This dish hits all the right notes.

Tim suggests using leftover grains instead of the potatoes. Farro, barley or rice would be excellent substitutions.

If going rogue with breakfast for dinner resonates with you, check out these other awesome recipes.

Bagel Breakfast Sandwiches
Fried Eggs on Rösti Potatoes with Shakshuka Sauce
Breakfast Burrito

Wedding Cake Cookies

One of the only silver linings of COVID is that weddings during this time have become more intimate. You’re forced to pare down your guest list to those that are truly nearest and dearest to you, and I think that makes for a very special day. Plus, with only 10 guests, a huge wedding cake is not needed!😉

My oldest son got married this past weekend and we were indeed an intimate group of 12, including the bride and groom. My son and daughter-in-law planned the entire day and it was perfect. They rented a charming stone coach house in rural Guelph Ontario. They held the wedding outside on the lush grounds surrounding the house. Everything was in bloom and it was an overcast day, which, if you’re a photography person, is ideal. Clouds are nature’s diffuser and make for the dreamiest, softest light.

As a family of mostly introverts, we were secretly (well maybe not so secretly) happy with the small guest list. I was thrilled that my 85 year old mom was able to attend. Of course she cried! It’s a standing joke in our family that it’s not a successful family gathering unless Moppy (that’s what her 14 grandchildren call her) cries. The groom is her very first grandchild and the first of the bunch to get married.

I did not volunteer to bake the wedding cake. I have made one wedding cake in my life and it was a very stressful experience that is best left to the professionals! I did offer to make wedding cake cookies as favours for the guests.

The cookies were my favourite chewy brown sugar cookie recipe. I filled them with blackberry buttercream and a dollop of tart blackberry jam. I used royal icing to stack the sandwich cookies and glue on the sugar flowers.

I packaged them up in these adorable clear little boxes and made labels to match.

They were really yummy, so delicious in fact that my daughter, who is getting married in August, asked if I could make them for her wedding guests. It will be my pleasure!

Sources for supplies

Strawberry Glazed Chewy Brown Sugar Cookies

I’m not as skilled as I would like to be in decorating cookies and cakes. In my next life I’d like to come back with the talents of cookie artist Patti Page. I’m constantly working on building my skill level and always on the lookout for tools to make me look more professional.

When I saw this cookie press on Etsy, I ordered it immediately. Wooden tools like this fall under the “embossing” category. They leave an imprint in the dough that makes you look like a decorating pro. I have had some experience with similar tools when I made these Embossed Brown Sugar Cookies.

Often the carving in the tool is not deep enough, so that when you bake the dough, the imprint disappears, like when I tried my heart rolling pin on these mini apple pies. I have also had issues with the dough sticking to the cutter or rolling pin.

I did a lot of experimenting when baking these cookies and developed what I found was a foolproof way of getting perfect cookies. And surprisingly, flour was not the best way to prevent sticking! Check out the video to see my method.

The brilliant rosy hue of the glaze is totally natural, thanks to the addition of freeze-dried strawberries. They pack a wallop of strawberry flavour. I add a bit of lemon juice to the glaze to balance out all that icing sugar.

The best word to describe the texture of these cookies is plush. Thick and slightly chewy, they are so satisfying to eat.

Asparagus with Pistachio Pesto

All winter long, I have been roasting my vegetables. While a roasted vegetable has its charms, hello charred cauliflower, there is something pure and simple about simply steaming or boiling vegetables. Asparagus works especially well when treated that way. It has a sweet, distinctly clean and grassy flavour that is masked if roasted.

Local asparagus has just started arriving in Ottawa. I prefer the thicker spears, and contrary to what you might think, the thicker spears are actually more tender. The fibre in thin stalks is more concentrated, making them actually tougher than their fat sisters. Thickness of an asparagus spear has nothing to do with age. A thin spear will not mature into a fat one. The determining factors are plant variety and age of the entire plant. Young plants produce slender spears. As the asparagus plants age, they tend to get fatter, much like humans!

Let’s chat for a minute about the best way to trim the asparagus. So many recipes instruct you to hold each spear with two hands and bend. The asparagus will “naturally” break where it’s supposed to. The problem with this approach is twofold. One, you need to do it one spear at a time, and two, you actually waste a lot of good asparagus. The ends that snap off actually have a lot of tender green still attached to them. The best way to trim asparagus is to line up a bunch on your cutting board and look for where the darker green part starts to fade to white. Cut off those pale hard ends with a knife.

While it is not necessary to peel your asparagus after cutting off the tough ends, I would like to encourage you take the extra few minutes to do this. It’s how I was trained to do it in restaurants and it’s a habit that has stayed with me. The asparagus cooks more evenly and looks so much prettier without the outer skin on the bottom half.

Instead of a vinaigrette for the asparagus, I decided to make a pistachio pesto. I want to share with you a great tip I learned, on how to keep your pesto from going brown. Add a small handful of blanched spinach to the food processor, along with the basil. The chlorophyll in the spinach helps delay the oxidation process.

While pine nuts are traditional in pesto, I used pistachios instead. They enhance the green colour and I love the flavour. Make sure you toast them first and remember to toast a few extra to sprinkle on top as a crunchy garnish. If you want to make the dish more substantial, try grating a few hard-boiled eggs on the large holes of your box grater and serving this as an additional topping. Eggs and asparagus are a classic pairing.