#28. Potato Rosemary Bread (for Mark)

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on January 30, 2010 by saltandserenity

 

Forgive me, Cousin Mark, for I have lapsed.  It’s been 24 days since my last post!  I came home from our winter holiday with a renewed sense of vim and vigour, determined to get back to the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge and my once a week baking and blogging schedule. I baked the Potato Rosemary Bread within 3 days of getting home never quite got around to blogging about it.   Life just got in the way.  My daughter was home from school visiting for a week and I began January, spending lots of time doing things for and with her.  Then I went to New York City with friends to celebrate our respective wedding anniversaries.  When I got home from that trip, the last thing I wanted to do was bake, blog or eat bread!  Then it was onto another trip, this time to Israel to visit my daughter, who is studying here for a year, and watch my husband participate in an ice hockey tournament.  Yes, ice hockey in Israel!!  But that’s a story for another time.

I’m writing this post from my hotel room in Jerusalem.  My cousin Mark has shamed me into it.  Thanks Mark!  It’s just the push I needed.

As I read through the ingredient list in Peter Reinhart’s recipe I noticed a few unusual ingredients.  Roasted garlic and mashed potatoes?

Let’s just say, as Renee Zellweger says to Tom Cruise, in Jerry Maguire, “You had me at hello.”,   Peter Reinhart, you had me at mashed potatoes!  Mashed potatoes are my go to comfort food.  When I was pregnant with my first child, it was all I craved.  I was working in a gourmet take-out food shop, and our chef, Karen Barnaby, would make staff lunch every day.   Usually it was some version of Pad Thai.  But for me, she made mashed potatoes with butter, cream and cheddar cheese.  Every day!  No wonder I gained 40 pounds with that pregnancy.  You might think that I would never want to look at mashed potatoes again after eating it every day for lunch for 6 months, but the exact opposite is true.  I still love mashed potatoes.  The recipe called for 1 cup of mashed potatoes.  It was unclear as to whether it should just be plain potatoes, mashed up or actual leftover mashed potatoes, made with salt and butter and cream.  I opted for the latter and made a big batch, saving a cup for the recipe.  The starch in the potatoes adds a tenderness to the bread .  It was a happy day in my house as I inhaled the aroma of an entire head of roasted garlic while eating a big bowl of mashed potatoes. 

The dough begins with a biga (a starter dough, prepared the day before).  The biga is incorporated with flour, salt, pepper, yeast, mashed potatoes, olive oil, rosemary and water to prepare the dough.  Then the dough is flattened out into a rectangle and the roasted garlic is spread on in an even layer.

The dough is then gathered up into a ball and kneaded by hand for an additional minute until the roasted garlic is evenly distributed.  It smells like heaven!  Then the dough is placed in a large container to double in size.  It takes about 2 hours.

 

Then the dough is divided in half, and formed into round loaves, called “boules”.  It is given a second rise, about 2 more hours, and then a sprig of rosemary is “glued” to the top with water as decoration.

 The loaves go into a hot oven for about 35 minutes.  These were gorgeous loaves, all burnished brown with a very heady aroma of garlic and rosemary. 

Of course we had to wait an hour before slicing into them.  I decided to invite some friends over for drinks and bread.  I prepared a pitcher of lemonade mojitos.  I put out some roasted almonds, dried cherries, dried apricots and a few different cheeses.  The girls came over and we ripped into the bread and mojitos.  Although I have no photos of the sliced bread, I can assure you that it was a tender crumb and the flavour of this bread was intense.  After 2 mojitos, my hand was not really steady enough to hold the camera.  We’ll leave it at that.

#27. No need to dread Portugese Sweet Bread!

Posted in 1 on January 6, 2010 by saltandserenity

Okay, so I’m a little embarrassed to admit that I have been obsessing about this bread for over 3 weeks now.  I baked my last BBA bread (poolish baguette) on December 14 and turned the page to see what was up next.  After I read through the ingredient list I was pretty sure this was not the bread for me.  I have this thing about using lemon and orange extract.  When I open that little bottle I am almost knocked out by the aroma.  To me it smells like furniture polish.

Plus, it was another white sweet bread.  We have already baked so many variations of these.  I was craving something with whole grains and a hefty chew.  However, the rules of our challenge are that we have to bake every bread in the Bread Baker’s Apprentice book,  so I was determined to follow through.  (I know, it’s not like the Bread Police would come and arrest me if I skipped one or went out of order, but I am a stickler for rules!)  I just couldn’t seem to muster up the excitement for this bread.  So I just thought about it every day for 23 days.  I’d wake up in the morning vowing this would be the day I’d tackle it and then go to sleep that night promising myself I’d do it tomorrow.  (Clearly I need to get a life, but that’s a subject for a whole other post!)   I’m not normally a procrastinator, so I’m not quite sure what my problem was and why this weighed so heavily on my mind.  Finally, yesterday morning I decided to get my act in gear and bake this bread.

The process begins with mixing up a sponge of  bread flour, sugar, water and yeast. 

This is left on the counter until bubbly and “seeming on the verge of collapse”.  (I love this phrase!) 

Next,  sugar, salt, powdered milk, butter and shortening are creamed together until smooth.  When I went to the cupboard to find my powdered skim milk, a big bag caught my eye.  I had purchased some coconut milk powder, several months ago, for coconut cupcakes.  I  decided to substitute the coconut powder for the regular milk powder.  I think when it comes to coconut there is no middle ground. You either love it or hate it.  It’s sort of like that with cilantro.   I am of the belief  that the addition of coconut will improve almost anything.  There!  Just adding coconut milk powder was making me feel better about Portugese Sweet Bread already!

I just couldn’t bring myself to use the extract, so I decided to add orange and lemon zest, instead.

 The smell of fresh lemon and orange zest makes me very happy.  I was feeling really good about this bread now.  My mood turned positively euphoric when I remembered that I had just bought a giant (32 ounce) bottle of vanilla bean paste.  I was excited to crack it open and use it. 

I mixed the dough in the machine.  Total mixing time was over 20 minutes.  I still could not get it to register 77º.  I gave up at 22 minutes and 75º.  Close enough!!

Look at those gorgeous vanilla bean flecks and bits of orange and lemon zest.

Next the dough is set aside to double in size.  Then it’s divided into 2 pieces and each if formed into a boule and placed into a greased pie plate for the final rise.  We are instructed to let the dough fully fill the pan.  Mine took almost 4 hours, but it finally almost filled the pan.

 

It’s given an egg wash and baked for about 40 minutes and it comes out all golden brown.  We waited about 45 minutes and then cut into it.

So after all that agonizing I am happy to report that I did not hate this bread. I can’t say it was my favourite either, but there is definately a time and place for this bread with it’s heady citrus aroma and pillowy softness.  (In case you’re curious,  the coconut milk powder imparted a very faint hint of coconut.)   The second loaf was sliced and put into the freezer to be used for french toast.

P.S.  I’ve had several people ask me how they can be noitified by e-mail every time I post a new entry.  If you go to my home page (www.saltandserenity.com), just above the little monthly calendar is a small line that says, “Subscribe to SaltandSerenity’s blog by e-mail”.  Just click on that and you can enter your e-mail address and be notified that way.

I’m still baking, just not baking bread!

Posted in Cookies on December 30, 2009 by saltandserenity

 

 It’s been 16 days since my last post and lest you think I’ve been slacking off, my fellow bread freaks, I have been quite busy with some other baking projects. As a way of saying thanks to all those who are important to me in my life, I bake sweets for them around the holidays.  It started when I was in my 20’s when my girlfriend Marla and I would become Chocolatiers, turning my kitchen into an artisan chocolate shop, making about 6 different varieties of truffles (including Grand Marnier, Mint, Peanut Butter, Espresso, Milk Chocolate with Almond and Praline).  At the end of about 4 days we’d have turned out over 2000 handmade truffles, hand dipped and decorated.  We’d be covered in chocolate, weigh 5 pounds more than when we started and be thoroughly disgusted by the sight and smell of all that chocolate. We swore we would not do it again next year.  But of course we did!

 Then in 1993 I moved to Ottawa so I had to fly solo.  Without Marla beside me I didn’t have the heart to do truffles so I turned to cookies.  In those early years the main beneficiaries of those treats were my kid’s teachers and the staff at the pediatrician’s office.  You’d be amazed how effective a big basket of cookies is in getting your sick child in to see the doctor before 10 other screaming, sneezing, coughing kids in the waiting room!  Each year I’d add a few more people to my list and now I have about 45 people I send to each year.

This year I made:

 Gingerbread Snowflake Cookies.  I piped white royal icing and sprinkled them with clear coarse sugar.  I made about 280 of these and by the time I was finished I had carpal tunnel syndrome in my piping hand.  My children thought it was quite funny that I injured myself baking!

I also made Lemon Coconut Cookies, Macadamia Butterscotch Chip Skor Bar Cookies and  Oatmeal Lace Cookies (sandwiched with chocolate ganache).

I made White Chocolate Dipped Peppermint Cookies.  I loved making these.  Here’s my chocolate dipping fork that I bought many years ago when I was heavily into truffle making.  It holds the flat cookies perfectly.

The crushed candy canes are sprinkled on before the chocolate has set.  I tempered the white chocolate.  I found a great site with step-by-step tempering directions.

A heating pad, set on low, keeps the chocolate at the perfect temperature after tempering.  Don’t forget to cover the heating pad in foil to avoid chocolate stains!

Here are the finished cookies. 

 I also made Double Chocolate Peanut Butter Bark.  I have been making this for about 10 years now and am kind of sick of it but I can’t delete it from the roster as the receptionist at my doctor’s office, my yoga teacher and my hairdresser tell me that they wait for it all year.  So it’s become a staple.  It keeps well in the fridge for several weeks.

The last treat I made was Chocolate Caramel Truffles with Fleur de Sel.

 

 While cookie baking is my passion, the real creative fun begins when I gather all my packaging material and design the labels.  I use a great graphics program called Print Shop and print out all the labels on glossy labels from www.onlinelabels.com.   Most of my ribbons and bags and boxes I get from www.pritchardpackaging.com, a wholesale outlet here in Ottawa where I live.

 I decided on a pink, black and white theme this year.

Here are the gift boxes all packaged up and ready to go:

 

 Next week I’m back to the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge, I promise!

# 26. Poolish Baguette Interruptus

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on December 14, 2009 by saltandserenity

 

Last week my sister Bo asked me how the bread baking was going and what loaf I was working on.  I told her that this week’s bread was “Poolish baguette.”  She responded that “poolish” sounded like what might result from eating such a baguette.  That got me to thinking.  I am so deeply immersed in this bread project that I am bandying about all this new baking terminology. So , for my sister Bo , and all others reading the blog, and not familiar with “Poolish”, a little clarification.

Poolish is a mixture made of equal weights of flour and water with a small amount of yeast.  In other words, it’s a wet messy goo.  This mixture is made and refrigerated, usually overnight, and then incorporated into the final bread dough the following day.  Poolish is one of several “Pre-ferments”, bakers use.  (Other pre-ferments include biga, pâte fermentée and sponge)  A pre-ferment extends the fermentation time which allows for more time for flavour to be developed in the final loaf.

Polish bakers, are credited with inventing this preferment in Poland at the end of the 19th century.  The process then was adapted in Austria and later in France.  The French coined the term “Poolish” to honour the Polish bakers who created this technique for improving bread.

I made my poolish on Friday and planned to make the final baguette dough on Saturday.  Saturday morning I took the poolish out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature. For this baguette, I decided not to knead the bread but use a technique I have been reading a lot about lately, called “Stretch and Fold”. 

In my research I came across a very interesting post by Martha and Tom, where they do an experiment and bake 3 loaves side by side for comparison.  The first uses the no-knead method, the second, traditional kneading  and the third is the stretch and fold technique.  They concluded that while all the breads tasted quite similar, the stretch and fold had the best open crumb and lofty structure.  Stretch and fold rose the highest and had the most evenly distributed open holes of the three loaves.  They concluded that stretch and fold is best for “rustic” types of breads.

I mixed my dough up briefly in the stand mixer, just until everything came together.  Then I dumped it out onto the back of an oiled baking sheet.  As you can see, the initial dough is quite shaggy.

 

I found a wonderful video on You Tube, with Peter Reinhart demonstrating the stretch and fold method, and I followed his technique and instructions.

Stretch and fold is exactly what it sounds like.  You pull the dough to stretch it and then fold it back on itself.  This is done 4 times, with 10 minute rests between each stretch and fold session.  Wetting your hands with cold water really helps the dough not stick to them.  Here is photo of me stretching the dough.

I had to set my camera on timer as I was home alone.  That in itself was a neat trick for me as I had not used the timer function in quite a while and forgot how to do it.  I had to get my reading glasses and manual out and it was quite a production but now I know how, so look for more timer photos in future posts.  It’s opened up a whole world of photographic opportunities for me.

 I took a photo of the dough after the first stretch and fold so you can see how the dough is becoming smoother.

After the fourth stretch and fold I set the dough into an oiled container for the first rise.  The recipe said to allow the dough to ferment at room temperature for about 2 hours.  

Here is where the bread making got interrupted.  I had to drive my son to his afternoon program, do a few errands and pick him up again.  I figured I could just stick the dough in the fridge and take it out and resume when I got home.  From my previous experiences with fermentation, I knew that the cold fridge would slow the dough rising annd I could finish later.  However, something went terribly wrong,  as when I pulled the dough from the fridge 4 hours later, this is what greeted me.

Clearly the dough was hard at work in the fridge while I was away.  It would seem that it had over-proofed.  Note to self;  the interruptus method of bread baking is not fool proof!  I decided to proceed and take my chances with the overproofed dough.  I formed the dough into baguettes and set them in my homemade couche for a final rise.  The couche (an old cotton apron) allows the baguettes to hold their shape and grow without touching each other. 

After about an hour they were ready for the oven.

I carefully transferred the baguettes to a semolina dusted peel and slid them onto a baking stone in a very hot oven.  Unfortunately there are no photos of this process as I could not co-ordinate my sliding motion with the timer function on the camera.  My technical prowess still needs a bit of finessing!  However, the sliding went without incident and my loaves stayed relatively straight.  here they are fresh out of the oven.

I would have liked them a bit darker but they were registering done (205º F) with the instant read thermometer, and I did not want dry bread.  I was quite pleased with the crackly crust.

The true test, for all bread freaks out there is looking inside at the “holes” (the crumb structure).  Bread freaks want holes, dentists do not!

This is the third baguette we have made in the Challenge.  I thought the taste and open crumb structure of the Poolish baguette was quite good, but not nearly as good as the Pain à l’Ancienne baguettes we made in week 21 of our challenge.  Here is a photo of my holes from my Pain à l’Ancienne.  Much more open than the Poolish. 

 If I am going to make baguettes again, it will be the Pain à l’Ancienne recipe for sure.

#25. Holy Pizza!

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on November 17, 2009 by saltandserenity

 

In week #25 of the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge we make pizza. When I first bought this book, in May, I was flipping through it, looking at the pictures.  My heart skipped a beat when I got to page 208 and saw our bread guru, Peter Reinhart, tossing pizza dough in the air.  I have always wanted to do this and was so excited to learn how. 

I frequently make pizza and my go-to dough recipe comes from a little book titled, “Pizza” by James McNair.  The ingredients are fairly similar to Peter Reinhart’s recipe.  The main difference between the two recipes is that James McNair’s recipe follows the traditional route of dissolving the yeast in warm water, whereas Peter Reinhart has us using ice-cold water.  James’ dough rises for 1 1/2 hours and then you are ready to make pizza.  Peter has us refrigerate the dough overnight.  This supposedly gives the dough better flavour as well as relaxing the gluten in the dough so that it is not too elastic to work with.

After my resounding success  using ice water and an overnight fridge rest with Peter’s Pain a l’Ancienne, I was sold on the concept of “cold” as a method to develop flavour.  Peter describes the process as “delayed fermentation.”  So even though this pizza would take 2 days to make, I was excited to discover a new flavourful dough.  Most people think that pizza is all about the toppings.  In fact, the reverse is true.  If you have a cardboard crust,  even the most wonderful toppings in the world won’t save it.

This pizza dough can be made with either unbleached all-purpose flour or unbleached bread flour. The bread flour has a higher gluten content, thus making the dough a little tougher and more elastic.  Peter recommends adding a bit of olive oil if you opt for the higher gluten bread flour.  He says it helps to tenderize the dough.  Never one to pass up the opportunity to add more fat to my diet, I opted for bread flour with olive oil!

The dough came together very quickly.  The texture is silky and supple.  I refrigerated it overnight and took it out the next day, about 2 hours before we were planning to have dinner. Once the dough came to room temperature I got my camera all set up on the tripod and set it to the timer mode.  I was planing to have a shot of me flipping the dough into the air.  The timer was set to catch the flip in the air at just the right moment.  I was so excited to capture this moment on film.

I dipped both hands in flour to coat them so the dough would not stick.

I got ready to toss.  I placed the  disc of dough over my fists, not my fingertips, as instructed in the book.  It became clear, immediately, that this dough was not going to be airborne.  It was such a soft dough that it slumped over my wrists and continued to make a downward slide over my arms.

I quickly transferred the dough to my pizza peel, which I had coated with semolina flour, to facilitate sliding the pizza off the peel and onto the baking stone which I had heating in a 550 degree oven.

Using my hands, as gently as I could, I managed to spread it out into a very rustic circle.

Then I added the toppings.  I decided to forgo tomato sauce.  I sprinkled it with Monterey Jack, Asiago and Parmesan cheese.

Next came slices of fresh tomato.

Finally I topped it off with chunks of fresh buffalo mozzarella.

I planned to top it off with fresh basil once it came out of the oven.

It slid quite easily into the oven.

I snapped a quick picture after it had been baking for 5 minutes.  Almost ready!

And then it all began to go horribly wrong.  I ran into a problem when I tried to remove the pizza from the oven.  I guess the dough had stretched a bit too thin in some spots, because when I tried to slide my pizza peel under it, to remove it from the oven, it wouldn’t budge.  The cheese had melted through a hole in the crust and was now stuck to the baking stone.  I finally wrestled it from the stone and here is what we ate for dinner.

The crust was light and crispy.  It was delicious.  I may try this one again as I am determined to get my dough airborne.  To be honest, I didn’t notice that much difference between my usual crust and this cold fermented one.  Maybe I should do a side by side comparison to see if it’s really worth the extra fermenting time for this dough.

#24. A very expensive Panettone.

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on November 15, 2009 by saltandserenity

 

bakedIn week 24 of the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge, we prepare the Italian Christmas bread known as panettone.  I have never made or eaten panettone before so I really had no frame of reference on this one.  As I read through the ingredient list I told myself to keep an open mind.  However, I had my doubts about this one.  I hate brandy, rum and whiskey (I’m a wine girl), intensely dislike orange and lemon extract (they smell like furniture polish to me).  I believe that candied fruits have no place in the culinary world. 

 There was one ingredient that was unfamiliar to me, “Fiori di Siclia”.  Peter Reinhart describes it as a wonderful blend of extracts and floral oils.  I decided to hunt some down, as I wanted my panettone to be as authentic as possible, a lesson I  learned from my brother-in-law Brandon.  Whenever he visits a new city, he insists on eating whatever that city is famous for and only from the original source.  When he visited Philadelphia, he almost missed his flight waiting in line for a Pat’s Cheesesteak.  When he came to Ottawa, he strapped on his skates and a fur trapper hat and skated down the longest skating rink in the world to sample “Beavertails” (fried dough dipped in sugar and cinnamon).  President Obama ate one too when he visited Ottawa!

I had the option of ordering fiore di sicilia from King Arthur for $7.95 plus $25.00 delivery (why do they charge so much for Canadian deliveries???), or from  Golda’s Kitchen (a Canadian web site) for $30.00 plus $7.00 for shipping.  Both admittedly were ridiculous options, but I was convinced that without it my panettone would not be authentic.  Since the Canadian economy needs a bit of a boost, I did my part and ordered from the Canadian web site.  The parcel arrived the next day (that never happens with US web sites shipping to Canada).  It arrived in a huge box.  I was a bit confused as I only ordered a 4 ounce bottle.  It was so carefully wrapped in bubble wrap and styrofoam peanuts.  I finally managed to unearth the bottle and opened it up preparing myself for a heavenly aroma.  Feh… furniture polish.  After spending such an outrageous amount of money for this essence, I tried to convince myself that the aroma would transform into something sublime during the baking process.  Okay, so I’m an optomist.

I decided to use dried sour cherries, cranberries, apricots instead of the candied fruit. Here they are soaked in rum.  They glistened,  just like little jewels.

fruit-soaked-in-rum

In addition to the dried fruits, soft butter and toasted almonds get added to the dough.

buttertoasted-almonds

It was almost impossible to mix in all these ingredients with the mixer.  The dough hook just kept going round and round and the dried fruit and nuts sat on top.

fruit-just-not-mixing-in

Time for hand kneading!

hand-kneading

After mixing the dough is set aside to rise for about 2 hours.  Then the dough is formed into little round balls and placed into special paper Panettone moulds.  I decided to do one large one and lots of mini ones.  They just looked adorable in their little paper cups.

in-their-little-paper-cups

Two hours later they had risen to the top of the moulds. 

ready-for-oven

I had to go out so I left my husband in charge of the baking.  Armed with a timer and instant read thermometer, he did a wonderful job.  Here they are fresh from the oven.

baked

I let them cool and then we took a bite.  They looked so pretty and I wanted to love them, but it wasn’t to be.inside-crumb

The texture was dry, the aroma was overpowering and all I could taste was the rum and extracts.  I suppose if you were a rum lover, this would be a good thing.  My husband didn’t mind them and our babysitter loved them so she and her girlfriend took all 15 of the mini ones home.

The next day I got an e-mail from chefshop.com.  They are selling panettone in about 20 assorted flavours.  There is a Caffe Panettone with coffee, chocolate, hazelnuts and almond icing.  Now that’s my kind of Panettone!

#23. Pane Siciliano and lessons about yeast relearned!

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on November 9, 2009 by saltandserenity

done

You would think that after baking bread for the past 22 weeks, I would have learned a thing or two about the properties of yeast.  Specifically, that yeast causes bread dough to rise and expand.  Somehow I forgot this lesson when making Pane Siciliano, the 23rd bread in the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge.

Pane Siciliano is an Italian bread made with both bread flour and semolina flour.  Semolina flour is milled from Durham wheat and is traditionally used to make pasta.  Peter Reinhart promises “a finished loaf with a beautiful blistered crust… and a crumb with large irregular holes.”  Ok, looks like we’re obsessing about bread holes again.

The bread begins with starter, made from  flour, water,  yeast and salt, prepared and refrigerated the day before.  The starter is then mixed with bread flour, semolina flour, water, yeast, olive oil, salt and honey to form a soft and pliable dough.  Then the dough is set aside to ferment for about 2 hours, until it doubles in size. 

It still amazes me that when you first start mixing you have a shaggy mass.  And after a mere 10 minutes of kneading the dough is transformed into a smooth supple ball.

shaggy-dough

smooth-dough

Then the dough is divided into 3 pieces and each is shaped into a baguette, and then extended until they are all about 24 inches long.  I appreciated the baguette shaping practice and my skill level is almost at the mediocre level.   Still a long way to go before I am good at this, but so much better than my first pathetic shaping experience.

divided-into-3

24-inch-baguettesThen the fun begins.  Working from both ends of the rope at the same time, coil the rope (in opposite directions) until it meets in the middle, forming an “S” shape.  I think that the bread shaping is one of the most fun parts of this challenge, (well aside from eating the breads, of course!)  The coiled loaves reminded me of snails with overgrown heads. 

coiling-1

The loaves are placed on a parchment lined baking sheet that has been sprinkled with semolina flour.  And here is where it all started to go wrong.  I placed all 3 loaves on the same baking sheet.

all-coiled-up

Clearly the past 22 weeks of bread baking had taught me nothing!  I misted the loaves with water, sprinkled sesame seeds on them, sprayed them again with vegetable spray oil, covered them with plastic wrap and put them to bed in the fridge for an overnight rest.

spraying-with-water

ready-for-fridge

I’m not sure why I was so surprised with the scene that greeted me the next morning when I opened the fridge.  The 3 loaves had swelled and had grown together into one large snail monster. It looked like a genetic experiment gone horribly wrong.  Clearly, each loaf should have gone on it’s own baking sheet.

stuck-together-1

  I tried to pry the loaves apart as gently as possible but unfortunately, in trying to separate the siblings, I squished them and they lost any gas they had.  After separation,they looked a little worse for the wear. 

after-separating

The test to see if the loaves are ready for baking is to poke the dough  gently.  If the dough springs back quickly, they need more proofing time.  If the dough stays dimpled, they’re ready for baking.  After a gentle poke, it was clear there was no spring left in my loaves.  Into a hot oven they went for about 30 minutes.  They seemed to come back to life a bit during the baking process. 

done

I let them cool for about an hour and sliced into them.  I had one nice large hole but the rest of the dough had a very tight crumb. 

sliced

The taste was slightly sweet and nutty and the texture quite tender.  I was hoping for a crisper crust and chewier inside.  We managed to eat about half of one of the loaves for dinner that night but unlike some of the other breads on this challenge, this one did not continue calling me into the kitchen all night for “just one more slice.”

Next week we tackle the Italian classic Christmas bread, Panettone.

#22. Pain de Campagne – As much fun to make as it is to eat!

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on October 29, 2009 by saltandserenity

baked-1

Anyone of a certain age may remember that old TV commercial for Jiffy Pop popcorn, with the tag line, “As much fun to make as it is to eat!”  This week’s bread in the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge, Pain de Campagne, reminded me of that tag line.  Peter Reinhart says that this is the perfect dough for creative shaping.  This is the play-doh of bread doughs! 

The literal translation for Pain de Campagne is Country Bread.  The dough is similar to a regular french baguette, but has the addition of a small amount of whole grain.  You could add rye flour, whole wheat flour, pumpernickle flour or even cornmeal.   I opted for rye flour.  The whole grain gives the finished loaf a golden brown crust. 

I decided to shape my dough into an épi (wheat sheaf) because the shaping technique uses scissors and as a frustrated crafter, I couldn’t resist .  This was a simple dough to put together.  The day before making it you prepare a paté fermentée (starter dough) using all-purpose and bread flour, water, salt and yeast.  The dough is refrigerated overnight and then the next day it is incorporated into the dough for the final bread.  The purpose of the paté fermentée is to improve the flavour and texture of the finished bread.  It’s like giving the dough a head start.

The paté fermentée is cut into 10 pieces and left out at room temperature for about an hour to allow it to come to room temperature after spending the night in the fridge.

 

pate-fermentee

Then the paté fermentée is mixed with bread flour, rye flour, salt, yeast and water.  The dough is kneaded for about 10 minutes until it is soft and pliable.

kneaded-dough

After a 2 hour rest, the dough has doubled and then you carefully cut the dough into 3 pieces.  A pastry scraper is perfect for this job.  You must be gentle here as you do not want to degas the dough.

cut-dough-into-3

Then the dough is formed into batards.

batards

The batards are then stretched into baguettes and left to proof for about an hour.

stretched-into-baguettes

Then comes the fun part!  Using a scissors, you cut into the dough at an angle, almost parallel to the loaf, cutting not quite through to the bottom of the loaf. Then gently swing the cut section to one side.  You continue down the length of the dough, cutting and swinging every 3 inches. 

 cutting-with-scissors

My picture of the scissor work sucks.  For a really great tutorial on how to do this, check out Kitchen Mage’s blog  for her wonderful photo essay on shaping the épi.

I was quite proud of my scissor skills.  Not too bad for my first time.

finished-cutting-2

After about 12 minutes in the oven they were done. I did not achieve the rich golden brown colour as described in the book, and so my crust lacked the crispy crunchy texture I had hoped for.  The inside was a little bit chewy, just the way I like it.  I gave away 2 of the loaves and devoured the third all by myself with salted butter.  Yum!

  baked-2

eating-1

Here are some of the beautiful shapes my fellow challengers created.

Oggi of “I can do that”, turned this dough into a  Couronne Bordelaise (Crown of Bordeaux).

Oggis Couronne de Bordelaise

Carolyn of “Two Shinny Jenkins” made an Epi (wheat sheaf): 

Carolyn's Epi

Phyl, from “Of Cabbages and Kings” was busy creating an Auvergnat (cap),a Couronne (crown) and and Epi (wheat sheaf).

Phyl's Cap, crown and Epi

#21. Brutti Ma Buoni Bread

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on October 20, 2009 by saltandserenity

 

done-1

There is a wonderful Italian meringue-type cookie called, “Brutti Ma Buoni.”  The literal English translation is “Ugly but Good.”  This week’s bread, in the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge, Pain a l’ancienne, reminded me of those cookies.  It also brought back memories of my dating days, before I was married, when I would go on blind dates.  I would ask my friend who was fixing me up to tell me a little bit about the guy.  She would say, “Well, he has a great personality.”  Everybody knows that’s just code for not so good looking!  That in a nutshell is Pain l”ancienne!  This was not the most attractive bread we have made, but the taste and texture more than made up for it!

The procedure for making this dough is a little unusual and different from what we have done in the past.  Instead of using warm or room temperature water, so that the yeast is activated right away, we used ice cold water in this recipe.

ice-water

Then the dough is refrigerated overnight.  It is not until the next day, that the dough is removed from the fridge and allowed to come to room temperature, that the yeast begins to wake up and do it’s thing. While the yeast was sleeping in the fridge overnight, the enzymes had a chance to break out more sugar from the starch in the dough. All this excess sugar that was created by delaying the yeast’s work, helps to produce a more flavourful dough and a more deeply caramelized crust.

The ice cold water is mixed with bread flour, salt and yeast. The dough should be very sticky and only release from the sides of the mixing bowl, and not the bottom.  My dough released from both the sides and the bottom, so I dribbled in more water, and continued mixing.  I really had no clue as to when I had mixed enough.  The recipe said only to mix for 6 minutes, but after 6 minutes my dough looked like cottage cheese, with tons of little lumps.  This had me very worried.  I was convinced I had missed some crucial step or ingredient.  I read the recipe again and could not find any errors, so I stopped mixing, transferred the dough to a bowl, covered it with plastic wrap and refrigerated it overnight. 

all-mixed

When I took it out of the fridge the next morning, it had barely risen at all.  It took almost 4 hours at room temperature for the dough to double.

doubled

Next, I dumped the dough out onto a heavily floured counter and gently patted into a rectangle, 6 x 8 inches.

6-x-8

Using a wet metal bench scraper, I divided the dough in half, and then cut each half into 3 strips, ending  up with 6 skinny lengths of dough. 

cut-into-6

I gently stretched each piece of dough to the length of my baking stone, (about 16 inches) and then placed them on an upside down baking sheet, covered with parchment paper and cornmeal.  Each baking sheet held 3 loaves.  We had the option not scoring the dough, but I was excited to practice my slashing skills.  The dough did not have great surface tension, so the lame sort of dragged, rather than making a clean slash. 

scored-2

I carefully slid the parchment with the loaves off the baking sheet and onto the stone I had heating in the oven.  The slide was smooth and no disaster ensued!  I added hot water to the pan in the oven and sprayed the oven walls, all without shattering any glass.  Wow, this was going way too well.  After 8 minutes, I turned the parchment and loaves 90 degreees for more even browning.  After an additional 10 minutes, the loaves were done.

done-2

After 30 minutes I sliced into the dough.  I was rewarded with the biggest holes I have produced to date.  I was so excited. 

the-crumb-1

Although the shape of the loaves looked like fat squiggly worms, the taste was amazing.  The crust had a hefty chew, which I love, and the flavour was kind of sweet and nutty.  This bread was one of my favourites so far and I will definately be making it again.

#20. The Best Toast in the World?

Posted in Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge on October 7, 2009 by saltandserenity

sliced-1In week # 20 of the Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge we encounter Peter Reinhart’s  “Multigrain Bread Extraordinaire.”  He claims that “this bread makes the best toast in the world.”  That’s a pretty bold claim.  Toast boasting is not something I take lightly.  I was looking forward to testing and toasting this bread.

 

This is a 2 day bread.  On day 1 you place coarse cornmeal, wheat bran and rolled oats in a bowl.

multigrains

Moisten the grains with a bit of water and cover with plastic wrap and let it sit out on the counter overnight.  Next, plan a dinner that includes brown rice and after cooking the rice, set aside 3 tablespoons  to use in the bread the next day.

The next morning, when I checked on the grains, they had absorbed all the water and looked like mush.

the-soaker

Then the “soaker” is mixed with bread flour, brown sugar, honey, buttermilk, salt, yeast brown rice and water to form a dough.  I mixed the dough in the Kitchen Aid mixer for about 10 minutes.  I found that I had to add an additional 1/2 cup of flour to get the right consistency.   I finished  kneading the dough by hand for an additional 5 minutes.  The final dough was supple and tacky but not sticky. 

dough

The dough is then set into an oiled container and set aside for about 90 minutes to double in size.

doubledready-for-primary-fermentat

To form the loaf, the dough is flattened out into a rectangle, about 6 x 8 inches.  Then it is rolled up, from the short side and the seam is pinched shut. 

rectangle

all-rolled-up

 

 

The bread goes into a loaf pan, is sprayed with water and sprinkled with poppy seeds.  Then the loaf is set aside to proof, for about 90 minutes, or until the dough is about 1 inch above the rim of the pan.

into-loaf-pan

ready-for-oven

 

 

 

Into the oven the bread went.  After about 20 minutes, I noticed the top was getting too brown so I covered it with foil and continued baking for another 15 minutes until it was done.

done-1

After about 2 hours I sliced and tasted.  Some multigrain breads can taste like cardboard.  Not this one!  The different grains gave this bread a wonderful texture.  It was chewy without being tough and the honey and brown sugar added a fantastic sweetness. 

sliced-2

The next morning I gave the bread the final test – I toasted it.  Peter Reinhart’s boast was valid.  This was the best toasted bread I have ever had.  I loved this bread so much I made a second loaf the next day, to slice up and freeze so I could have it toasted for breakfast for the next few days.  I decided to incorporate some whole wheat flour into my second loaf.  The original recipe calls for 3 cups of white bread flour.  I used 1 cup of whole wheat flour and 2 cups of white bread flour.  The results were subtle but the final loaf was slightly chewier in texture and nuttier in flavour.  This loaf is a keeper!!